gen 2 kick starter issues
gen 2 kick starter issues
I just finished my 2000 cr250 conversion. The only thing I’m having issues with is the stock 1991 cr500 kick starter doesn’t stop on the foot peg. It hits the case first. I was wondering how I could fix this problem.
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Weld a block onto the footpeg that the KS can key into. I do this to any bike I've had as even OEM usually let the lever get trashed by the FP. Or the peg gets trashed by the lever
This is even more important as you can break the case/flog out the KS shaft on the outer case - the std 500 lever has a shitload of leverage going into those areas.
Your Pics don't give a good idea of KS/ peg interface - looks like could be either on/near 1st angled section back in from back of peg, or perhaps just the first 10mm of back of peg.
Fold the peg up to see limitation on stopper block when peg up to frame, you don't want to loose peg fold up or gouge frame. Work that out & area of KS to peg interface. Get steel block ,
at least twice as wide & deep as you think it will need to be, take the time to contour it to the KS arm ( no gouges if you do this - better all around ) then, with the block against the arm ,
gradually file/grind front of the block to fit flat on the back of FP, when perfect, mark top & sides of block placement on back of FP, remove peg, TIG on. Perfection .
My lowered & extended outward std pegs have 3 tiny curved/angled blocks on them , each to suite std 500, CRF450 and Gas Gas short lever. The KTM pegs I use have only the one block, to suite
the Short GG lever that I really only ever use. I have a 89 CR125 lever, that when fitted to the 450 knuckle is that tiny it fits in bum bag for multi day events when I'm paranoid about the small pivot pin
on the GG finally breaking ( I use a Rekluse so no bump starting without putting an extra plate in to lock it up )- impossible to put block on peg with that without loosing FP pivot distance, so I have a
small alloy plate with rubber between it & case bolted to Clutch cover - doubt I would ever need it but do not want to risk case damage if I do.
This is even more important as you can break the case/flog out the KS shaft on the outer case - the std 500 lever has a shitload of leverage going into those areas.
Your Pics don't give a good idea of KS/ peg interface - looks like could be either on/near 1st angled section back in from back of peg, or perhaps just the first 10mm of back of peg.
Fold the peg up to see limitation on stopper block when peg up to frame, you don't want to loose peg fold up or gouge frame. Work that out & area of KS to peg interface. Get steel block ,
at least twice as wide & deep as you think it will need to be, take the time to contour it to the KS arm ( no gouges if you do this - better all around ) then, with the block against the arm ,
gradually file/grind front of the block to fit flat on the back of FP, when perfect, mark top & sides of block placement on back of FP, remove peg, TIG on. Perfection .
My lowered & extended outward std pegs have 3 tiny curved/angled blocks on them , each to suite std 500, CRF450 and Gas Gas short lever. The KTM pegs I use have only the one block, to suite
the Short GG lever that I really only ever use. I have a 89 CR125 lever, that when fitted to the 450 knuckle is that tiny it fits in bum bag for multi day events when I'm paranoid about the small pivot pin
on the GG finally breaking ( I use a Rekluse so no bump starting without putting an extra plate in to lock it up )- impossible to put block on peg with that without loosing FP pivot distance, so I have a
small alloy plate with rubber between it & case bolted to Clutch cover - doubt I would ever need it but do not want to risk case damage if I do.
the kickstarter in the pic is hitting the case.
the block on the foot peg would probably work the best. It looks as though it will need to stick out nearly an inch to give the KS some room from the case. taking off of the idea of welding onto the foot ped, I was wondering if i could also weld a small block onto the kick starter as well as the ped. does anyone know if welding onto a kickstarter will weaken it or not?
the block on the foot peg would probably work the best. It looks as though it will need to stick out nearly an inch to give the KS some room from the case. taking off of the idea of welding onto the foot ped, I was wondering if i could also weld a small block onto the kick starter as well as the ped. does anyone know if welding onto a kickstarter will weaken it or not?
- dannygraves
- Posts: 8020
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Don't weld the KS.
Looks like stop on KS or on knuckle is worn enough so the KS is rotating to far - correct that with weld on knuckle stop & file. Try to end up with the foot of the KS at right angles ( or indeed pointing very slightly to the rear of bike ), less foot slipping off the lever dramas.
Perhaps the KS lever bore is flogged out.
A block at the rear of the peg, done properly, won't interfere with your foot on the peg, rock clearance, peg fold up angle. And it will be a lot smaller than you think if you do it properly. Who gives a damn if there is a funny looking stub on the back of the peg. A hell of a lot better than a broken case. Nearly every conversion I've seen misses out on this key detail of a decent KS stop - and , indeed , most OEM stops are piss poor. Drives me f**king nuts to see that sort of thing.
If you want I can put some pics up.
Looks like stop on KS or on knuckle is worn enough so the KS is rotating to far - correct that with weld on knuckle stop & file. Try to end up with the foot of the KS at right angles ( or indeed pointing very slightly to the rear of bike ), less foot slipping off the lever dramas.
Perhaps the KS lever bore is flogged out.
A block at the rear of the peg, done properly, won't interfere with your foot on the peg, rock clearance, peg fold up angle. And it will be a lot smaller than you think if you do it properly. Who gives a damn if there is a funny looking stub on the back of the peg. A hell of a lot better than a broken case. Nearly every conversion I've seen misses out on this key detail of a decent KS stop - and , indeed , most OEM stops are piss poor. Drives me f**king nuts to see that sort of thing.
If you want I can put some pics up.
Here's some pics - the bike stand is mounted on a castor wheeled base so I can scoot the bike(s) between all my machinery/bikes etc- makes life a lot easier! A KS stop may be a small thing but if you have done a AF or any bike, why not attend to the smaller details? - this detail can save you expensive repair bills. Sorry about dodgy 'phone pics.
KTM peg with KS stop on 500.
Gas Gas lever (with extended foot piece - no slip, no trashed boot sole, easy to find with your foot on or off bike) showing KTM peg with KS stop Plus case protector for when 89 CR125 (with CRF450 knuckle) lever is used.
KS about to hit peg stop - stop contoured to fit lever perfectly - you can see how short Gas Gas lever is. Needed for knees that don't bend past 90 degrees.
CR500 peg lowered by 32mm, achieved by: moving spring spigot, then placing a 20mm thick block that "gull wings" pegs down & outwards - The variety of blocks on the back of the peg shown suite std 500 , CR450f & Gas Gas levers and do not interfere with rider or bike.
KTM peg with KS stop on 500.
Gas Gas lever (with extended foot piece - no slip, no trashed boot sole, easy to find with your foot on or off bike) showing KTM peg with KS stop Plus case protector for when 89 CR125 (with CRF450 knuckle) lever is used.
KS about to hit peg stop - stop contoured to fit lever perfectly - you can see how short Gas Gas lever is. Needed for knees that don't bend past 90 degrees.
CR500 peg lowered by 32mm, achieved by: moving spring spigot, then placing a 20mm thick block that "gull wings" pegs down & outwards - The variety of blocks on the back of the peg shown suite std 500 , CR450f & Gas Gas levers and do not interfere with rider or bike.
- dannygraves
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- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 2:03 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
- eyesky2002
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