BannedCR500Riders.com

I've started to use a Leatte GPX Club 2. Something that Leatte are Really stuffing up on is their sizeing charts. If you check them out, anyone with a bigger than 110cm chest dia., Will have real concerns it won't fit. All the searching I did, came up with nothing to let me know what length hinges c...

Get a New carb. It certainly won't hurt, and, as you've written, you're dealing with a 26 year old carb. The slide /body interface Does wear. Enough wear = a hell of a lot of 'free air' passage 'around' the slide /body interface. There are a variety of PWK options, I'm sure you can find which one su...

If you don't replace the whole crank, whilst you've got the engine apart, you could drill (a very short distance - not past the outer side of the primary gear) a hole in the end of the crank to take a bolt. With an appropriate spacer to go over the crank end to bear against the primary gear. Depends...

I've no problem with sand at all - But of course, a real sand tyre will slaughter it - as it would a hard terrain tyre. If I were to go to a full on sand area, I would fit a specialist sand one, same as if the area I was in was nothing but a mud fest - but that doesn't exist where I ride. Best thing...

For a moment there, I thought you might have the ultimate 'Stink Bug' going.

Top exhaust springs and airboot sorted?

Have fun on it.

well boys and girls i have used the bike quite a bit and i frickin love it, and i started wondering why i didnt do it sooner ??? the handling is amazing and its just awesome to ride ! no problems with it yet and the engine mountsare holding out very well i do regular checks on the "Y" sec...

Shim the mounts. Your engine and frame will thank you for doing that. Large diameter, to minimise dig in of the engine to the frame, and vise versa. Sharp edges of washers (under nuts and bolt heads), away from the frame. Simple things like those can make a frame last a hell of a lot longer. I'm gla...

There's no 'pussing out' when using something better for the use you put it to. I've used Michelin X11 Tubeless (for the thicker side wall) for years now. I used to have a knobby on a spare wheel, but found the change too weird, after a while. Yes, you do get 'wander' - soft tyre walls and low press...

I'd also try to use a front mount more like the original style where the load is spread to two sides of the tube rather than just a flat plate along the side. One of those things I figure its like that from the factory, so it's probably for a reason. A lot of what is done at factory level is for ex...

I've got scrap in 6, 6.5, 9.5mm in 6061, and 8mm in 5083. If you need some, to make nicer / better front plates than those, just let me know (I've got buggerall 6mm :shock: , but a section thats 50mm wide for 150mm, with a step down to 44mm - it looks like the max width you need is somewhere near th...

Aftermarket 38 AS. Oval bored by me - Upwards. I always forget , as I've been using them for so long, but I run a #6 slide, instead of the #7 the carbs tend to come with. Way to lean, with a 7, but a 6 doesn't alleviate the leanness of the 'DGN'. Perhaps the #6 slide is what allows me to use the 35P...

I was looking through the latest EBC catalogue - no joy there, they have dimensional drawings for brake shoes and brake pads - not the discs. Go looking for Braking and Galfer and other PDF catalogues, they may have disc dimensional drawings. Or give the TM importers a call - they previously brought...

i rang them today unless we can get 100 kits bought and paid for they are not interested another brick wall where are these promised photos bigred I'm surprised they'd even consider that low a number. Did they give Any indication of price? Orbital Are THE DFI company. They hold patents for so much ...

Just means you've yet to ride a good one :lol: Each person has their 'druthers. I'd go for the latest, healthiest engine I could find. I've ridden some great case reed CR250s - pissing off the Mikuni is a big step to being able to make it do what you want. Then, 'have at it'. There's the beauty of 2...

Gmbond, That will be the best thing you've ever done to the engine. Hoiking the Mikuni (though some of the E PV engine had Keihins, I think) is the go. I'd use the E PV, case reed engine. Simple as that. A big 'problem' - as well as that bloody Mikuni - was the smoothness of that engine - people tho...

Perhaps it's any one of the various EFI kits that Quaddies run? They've been around for long enough now to perhaps be sorted out to give real, wide range, usability.

It would take some serious engineering to fit an OEM 4t EFI.

I'm eagerly awaiting pics of the system used.

This quote is seriously fucked up: "he tells me thats the wrong way, the right way is to put the rollers on the tins and measure to where the bearing goes...." An Engine Specialist said this? Un fucking believable. Idiots running the dial guage off the 'tins', I've seen that - this, is eve...

Who gives a stuff about the bloody Skyline?

Give me pictures of the damned near pristine MR50!

Naaaa.... Cherynobyl was worse. The cloud from the burning reactor spread many types of radioactive materials, especially iodine-131 and caesium-137, over much of Europe. Because radioactive iodine disintegrates rapidly, it largely disappeared within the first few weeks of the accident. Radioactive...

Have a Squizz at Gregrobo's plate Y build. I'd take the overlap on the downtube higher ( no problem whatsoever with what he's done, I just tend to go for big engagement - or , idiot overkill as my mates call it), with a 'spear' shape, or a 'U' / 'V' shape at the top. Spear shape - full weld. Longer ...

Fuck Me. I wouldn't give a fuck about unlimited warranty - one day you just might run out of luck with the failures - let me count the ways. Picture is weird, but the lower mount looks seriously out of line with the upper. No amount of 'cupped' washer / rubber top mounts will help things, especially...

Polished to buggery. Many polish mediums are out there that seal the surface to prevent oxidisation. Different grades of alloy polish up / hold polished finishes better than others. Some roll bars / bull bars are clear anodised, or simply clear spray coated. From a personal view, I detest polished f...

Done well, they certainly should be. And they are very good / versatile for 'different' builds - as in, making 'shapes' that might be required, for different frames, like 125s with their more angled back original down tube. My much preferred option. I think I gave you some direction / suggestions wi...

The front overlap is a good detail - it helps in not localising the forces / stress across the tube / plate. I would have had the outer plates come down to near that overlap, with a curved / diagonal weld (or, perhaps better, no weld) back up to the non overlapped section. A major and common problem...

I find the US blokes much favoured DGN to not work for me. Pings under load, generally sucks, no matter what clip it's in. But I've found most US spec jetting just doesn't seem to work here in OZ. I learned that basic truth in the seventies when I worked at the Mikuni distributors here. I regularly ...