Af

All Engine, Clutch, Chains, and Sprockets Stuff Here.
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glen howell
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Post by glen howell »

We all saw this on 3 different sites back in2006.I would like to see a in chasis rebuild on top end on a AF chasis!! Thank's BOB Glen( Team GSS) NAHA #42, Life member AMA, AMI GRAD. !985 ,Certified ASE M/C Mechanic,, AMA HALL OF FAMER !963 Owner and operater of GSSRACEPORTING.Not for me, But it would let a fellow hoon know what he's getting into with a engine build on a AF bike.
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gregrobo
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Post by gregrobo »

good idea glen but some of the conversions ive seen you cant get the barrell off in the frame i can on mine some are bench rebuilds bit of a pain in the arse
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glen howell
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Post by glen howell »

you got that right the bike is a pleasure to ride till it comes to maintance,Then you better have lots of tools and a lot of free time ,or plan on long tear downs.If you take it to honda they will run you off the place,and most indepent shops at $70.00 per hr. they love em.and you.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

On the tightest Gen 3 I have seen, you pop off the fuel tank, pull the lower and front motor mount bolts, swing the motor up, jam a hammer-handle between the cradle and engine case, remove the reed block and exhaust flange and pull the jug straight up.

Adds 15 minutes to the removal process..... no biggie.
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glen howell
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Post by glen howell »

I just did a top end rebuild on a 2004 450 fromed af .maybe it was a unusual frame job the customer said it was done by a pro.frame person. it had 5 different size bolts and nuts .the brace on the front of the y which is supposed to be in front of the top part for the exhaust was on the inside insted of on the out side .Nessitating the complete removal of engine to get top end off. I have more tools than you and not to be bragging but a lot more experence on CR-500 engine work I would say about 1 hour more removal time than on a steelie.In dollars and cents with all of the extra removal of the plastics total in and out time with a new cylinder 3.5 hrs. VS 1.5 hrs on a steelie. I don't know but this is about 6 of these I have done ,And I think I have as much knowledge as anyone one this site and every one was about the same. I love the way these bikes run and handle but they don't handle that much better than a steelie after the forks and shock has been redone and set for the weight of the rider. And just for fun,I asked my local Honda dealer whom I have known and raced against for over 40 years ,If his dealership would do 1 of these bikes .He said a flat no!! and tell the customer to leave.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

glen howell wrote:the brace on the front of the y which is supposed to be in front of the top part for the exhaust was on the inside insted of on the out side
Sounds like you were working on Larry's (Hellbears) bike.

Yea, 450's have a different Halo, Headstay arrangement.
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M.F.D.B.
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Post by M.F.D.B. »

glen howell wrote: I love the way these bikes run and handle but they don't handle that much better than a steelie after the forks and shock has been redone and set for the weight of the rider.
I may only be 28 and you prolly have MX boots older than me (with all due respect of coarse) but I have to disagree there. Ive ridden back to back on steelies and AF's and granted the steelies wernt exactly sprung and valved for me but then again neither were the AF's and the AF's all handled several times better then any steelie. Now im talking MX and expert desert type riding not hill shooting so they may very well hill shoot similarly...
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ZETTNORCAL
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Post by ZETTNORCAL »

I can have my engine out and on the bench in 35min. Not a big deal. But then again I don't have to cause I can to an in-frame top end.
I personally think that if you have to take your AF to the honda dealer to get anything worked on mabey you should'nt be riding it.

But what do I know?
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

I rode MFDP's Blue 4 poke, really liked the handling, compared specs...( Wheelbase, rake , trail, swingarm legnth, etc....) Found it to be the same as the CRF250X.... so thats what I built.

I would NEVER go back to a steelie.
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Post by 100hp honda »

whether or not the jug can be removed in-frame or the whole motor has to come out depends alot on how the build was done... where the Y is positioned, how far the motor is clocked forward, etc etc etc. it would be cool to pull the jug in-frame but if it dont happen then i could care less, getting proper clearance on other stuff is far more important to me.
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glen howell
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Post by glen howell »

f you can take all the plastics off,drain all the liquids,take chain off, remove swing arm bolts,remove shock,remove all the exhaust ,remove all the incedental pieces to take engine out for rebuilding by yourself In 35 min., I have 3 shops !! I need a guy like you, And I pay more than most shops, And I pay better than most jobs that you would use your hands at.I would like to talk to you if your interested,Send me a resume,I would like to talk to you,If your interested in a change on your present job.We have 2 stores in beautieful AZ.And ! store in Ca. We only work 5 days sun and mon. off and all holidays off and all race days, including your birthday.Thanks.Glen
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KE 336
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Post by KE 336 »

That is exactly why I went with a bolt on right front mount. Couldn't see any way to do a top end without pulling the motor.
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Post by Tharrell »

The more I hear about these conversions the more I want one.
I'm trying to learn as much as possible while keeping everything else in check.
Is there a kit I could buy and get my machine shop to do the mods?
Which gen is preferred? What should I be looking for?
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ZETTNORCAL
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Post by ZETTNORCAL »

glen howell wrote:f you can take all the plastics off,drain all the liquids,take chain off, remove swing arm bolts,remove shock,remove all the exhaust ,remove all the incedental pieces to take engine out for rebuilding by yourself In 35 min., I have 3 shops !! I need a guy like you, And I pay more than most shops, And I pay better than most jobs that you would use your hands at.I would like to talk to you if your interested,Send me a resume,I would like to talk to you,If your interested in a change on your present job.We have 2 stores in beautieful AZ.And ! store in Ca. We only work 5 days sun and mon. off and all holidays off and all race days, including your birthday.Thanks.Glen
Well I can only take MY engine out in 35min. and that's because I have done it several times. As far as the job offer "No thanks, I'm doing just fine right now" Unless they legalize Weed.
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Post by nmdesertrider »

My bike is bone stock and you can get a lot of hours on a top end this way.
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Post by 100hp honda »

if i was a pro racer and needed the topend to come out in between motos then i would build the chassis accordingly. im just a average rider that may pull it 2 times a year (unless some unforseen catastrophy happens), how fast i can remove the topend is no concearn to me. making the pipe, frame rails and carb fit correct is more priority than taking the jug off in 20min :D
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Post by glen howell »

If you we're a pro-racer you wouldn't be allowed to touch the engine or bike you would only make suggestions for your mechanic to do the take ins and take outs,Your job is to tell people about your sponsers and scope the betty's. And play with the grupies.
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Post by Hellbear »

I putted it up and down the alley at my place and I can already tell she's gonna run A LOT better than she did. I can't wait to actually get out and ride it.

Thanks for the work you did Glen. I really appreciate it, especially all the work that ended up needing to be done. I can't stop looking at the new top end. :P

:headbang: :headbang:
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Post by hoofarted »

KE 336 wrote:That is exactly why I went with a bolt on right front mount. Couldn't see any way to do a top end without pulling the motor.
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Your hose clamp is missing. :P
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KE 336
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Post by KE 336 »

hoofarted wrote:
KE 336 wrote:That is exactly why I went with a bolt on right front mount. Couldn't see any way to do a top end without pulling the motor.
Image
Your hose clamp is missing. :P
Yeah well, my welder told me I wouldn't need no stinking clamp. He said in the round shape it wouldn't be much stronger than the rubber anyway so why bother with a clamp. :lol:
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Post by bearorso »

KE 336 wrote:
hoofarted wrote:
KE 336 wrote:That is exactly why I went with a bolt on right front mount. Couldn't see any way to do a top end without pulling the motor.
Image
Your hose clamp is missing. :P
Yeah well, my welder told me I wouldn't need no stinking clamp. He said in the round shape it wouldn't be much stronger than the rubber anyway so why bother with a clamp. :lol:
Absolutely classic , KE336 :lol:

I'm might be wrong about who/what you are referring to with that comment, but it's bloody priceless!

I like your removable front mounts - great lateral thinking.

This is the sort of thing that I love to see here - blokes doing their own bikes and doing something different to others :cool:
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