Rick
Alu Frame as a gas tank
Alu Frame as a gas tank
Ok, I have searched for 2 hrs. and still can't find the pictures of the alu. frame plumed for a res. tank. can anyone help.
Rick
Rick
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Roostius_Maximus
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i posted it, may have gone missing with my skydrive beeing shut down. It was a gen3 450 that i had a picture of, brass 1/8pipe thread fitting that was 90degree to accept a steel brake line, lines met in the middle with a street t and from there spliced into the line from the tank to carb.
I have it saved on a harddrive, just cant get to it today. I can email you the pic if u want, think i may have stolen it from bikepics.com even
I have it saved on a harddrive, just cant get to it today. I can email you the pic if u want, think i may have stolen it from bikepics.com even
http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
Roostius, yes very interested in any pics and information, what would a cross section of a 03 125 frame look like, does anyone know ?
Rick
rhupp1@adelphia.net
Rick
rhupp1@adelphia.net
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nmdesertrider
- Posts: 678
- Joined: February 22nd, 2008, 8:18 pm
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Roostius_Maximus
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- Joined: November 16th, 2007, 3:24 pm
- Location: Mt Nebo, Manitoba, Canada
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i think its all hollow with no internal bracing in the gen3s, i looked at a gen1, cant be done without installing a sleeve or something in the neck, the tubes are open up top.
http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
Sorry for the long post... I did it on my '02 250.
Before I started I pressurized the frame through one of the spar's vent holes (down by the carb and pipe). I found a bunch of bolt holes and a couple other vent holes and a couple on the downtube that were where a mount was riveted on for the original power valve servo electronics where air was leaking, so I knew those areas were open to the spars. I t'd into the downtube and the half-round spar-to-downtube brace for the extra fuel capacity.
I filled the tiny pinholes with JB Weld, and tapped and plugged the holes with 4mm phillips-head screws, using JB Weld as a thread sealant. I t'd in both spars and the downtube into one line, then through the shut-off, then t'd into the original fuel line. All that fuel line looks like spaghetti down there. Up by the tank I threaded in a small vent fitting (I've seen a couple others that drilled through the tank hold-down bolt and put a small hose barb on that. I would have done that too, but I didn't have the equipment to drill through that bolt at the time).
I filled the tank full before I opened the original petcock. Then I turned on both petcocks, and the fuel fills the spars via gravity feed, from the bottom up. After a couple minutes waiting for the fuel to go down in the tank, I topped off from a half-gallon container (it took about 2/3 of it). I was impatient, so I used a vacuum pump to pull the rest of the fuel into the frame until it came through the vent line. The tank then took the rest of the half-gallon of fuel.
Now the bad part... I guess I didn't wait long enough for the JB Weld to cure. After about 15 minutes I had fuel dribbling down the frame and onto the garage floor. Uggghhh!!!
So... I would do it again if I were doing it while I had the frame down to nothing for the conversion. Just take your time and make sure you have all the pinholes welded up. Second thing, it seems like the downtube and spar-to-downtube brace must not be completely open to the spars. Air gets into those areas easily, but fuel doesn't. I had to pull a pretty strong vacuum to fill those areas. When I drained the frame, the spars emptied pretty quickly, but fuel just seeped out the line from the downtube. It would probably be worthwhile to punch some bigger holes into those areas from the spars- I just don't know the best way to do that.
Before I started I pressurized the frame through one of the spar's vent holes (down by the carb and pipe). I found a bunch of bolt holes and a couple other vent holes and a couple on the downtube that were where a mount was riveted on for the original power valve servo electronics where air was leaking, so I knew those areas were open to the spars. I t'd into the downtube and the half-round spar-to-downtube brace for the extra fuel capacity.
I filled the tiny pinholes with JB Weld, and tapped and plugged the holes with 4mm phillips-head screws, using JB Weld as a thread sealant. I t'd in both spars and the downtube into one line, then through the shut-off, then t'd into the original fuel line. All that fuel line looks like spaghetti down there. Up by the tank I threaded in a small vent fitting (I've seen a couple others that drilled through the tank hold-down bolt and put a small hose barb on that. I would have done that too, but I didn't have the equipment to drill through that bolt at the time).
I filled the tank full before I opened the original petcock. Then I turned on both petcocks, and the fuel fills the spars via gravity feed, from the bottom up. After a couple minutes waiting for the fuel to go down in the tank, I topped off from a half-gallon container (it took about 2/3 of it). I was impatient, so I used a vacuum pump to pull the rest of the fuel into the frame until it came through the vent line. The tank then took the rest of the half-gallon of fuel.
Now the bad part... I guess I didn't wait long enough for the JB Weld to cure. After about 15 minutes I had fuel dribbling down the frame and onto the garage floor. Uggghhh!!!
So... I would do it again if I were doing it while I had the frame down to nothing for the conversion. Just take your time and make sure you have all the pinholes welded up. Second thing, it seems like the downtube and spar-to-downtube brace must not be completely open to the spars. Air gets into those areas easily, but fuel doesn't. I had to pull a pretty strong vacuum to fill those areas. When I drained the frame, the spars emptied pretty quickly, but fuel just seeped out the line from the downtube. It would probably be worthwhile to punch some bigger holes into those areas from the spars- I just don't know the best way to do that.