NOLOGY FTW!
NOLOGY FTW!
After talking to Wook tonight he said I should post this here so good ol cut and paste:
This is my first, first hand experience with Nology products. All my prior experiences were second hand from my automotive buddies. I was unaware Nology offered dirt bike applications until I stumbled upon them in the Parts Unlimited catalog while shopping for a replacement for my old, stiff stock plug wire on my 2003 CR250R. I called them for a few tech questions I had and was offered a setup to try out. Even after I warned them that I am brutally honest and “tell it like it is” they didn’t hesitate for a second at the challenge. That alone peaked my interest!
Here is what the stock setup looked like “before”:
The instructions warn against cutting any closer than 2 inches from the “capacitor” so I chose 3 for safety:
Unthread the stock wire and you will see what looks like a wood screw poking up:
I slipped a piece of heat shrink and the OEM boot on the end and then threaded the Nology wire in. Then shrunk it down and slipped the boot back into position:
Super simple and clean!
I routed the wire near the frame spar so I could zip tie it and keep everything clean and tidy:
The ground wire eyelet was the perfect size for the exhaust valve cover:
They supplied me with a Nology “Silver” plug which has a bluish purple anti-fouling coating. After a full practice day at SVMX and a few gallons of race gas later, I can honestly say im impressed! The coating seems to deliver, what do you think?
I did a few short vids after each change to illustrate the differences. See for yourself:
Stock ignition wire, NGK plug
Stock ignition wire, Nology Silver plug
Nology wire, NGK plug
Nology wire, Nology Silver plug
To me it was hard to tell the differences until I got to the Nology wire and Nology plug. When I checked out that footage I was surprised to see the increase in brightness. It wasnt as drastic as some of the photos ive seen on the Nology website but in all fairness this is with the stock ignition coil and not a high performance coil. I can say that even though the bike was not hard to start before this mod, it certainly seems easier now. There also seems to be a throttle response increase, although small. The most noticeable change to me has been how smooth the bike idles and pulls through the rpms now. I have to give this setup the highest marks across the board:
High "bling factor"
Super easy install
Top quality materials and build
Plug is priced on par with competing brands
Only somewhat negative I could find is the anti fouling coating on the plug. It works great! But if you are the kind of person who does a lot of "plug chops" when you are tuning the lack of build up could throw you off. So it depends on what type of person you are. Me personally, id rather have the anti fouling coating, but I tune more by feel and sound, than I do what a plug chop shows.
************************************************
A little while back I sent my 03 CR250R cylinder head in for the "100 octane mod" changes. They fixed Honda's quench volume issues and also raised the compression. Right afterwards I started experiencing signs of weak ignition which wasnt a surprise as raising compression can quickly expose weakness in this area. I started looking into upgrading my ignition. First I started with the spark plug wire as this is a common issue on these bikes. After stumbling on Nology products in the Parts Unlimited catalog I called to ask some recommendations. They sent me a Nology wire and matching Nology Silver Plug. This combination made a substantial improvement but was not “optomized” due to the weak stock coil. Nology sent me their “ProFire” coil to try out and here is how the install went.
I could have taken the easy way out and simply zip tied the coil to the frame spars and called it a day. But those who know me well know that I like to make things look clean and professional. The Nology Coil comes with very sturdy mounting lugs. So I took a piece of “L” channel aluminum (gotta save weight you know! HAHA) and made a simple bracket to mount the coil to the stock tab locations. Since these coils are not “self grounding” I added a ground wire to the mount bracket:
Next thing to do was extend the “hot” lead a few inches. Honda was apparently running short on copper wire when they made my bike. Even with the stock coil the lead barely reached. Just like the ground wire, its always solder, shrink, and die electric when I wire something. Used black wire again so it doesn’t stand out:
Next thing to do was bolt the coil up and plug the wires in:
Next thing to do is convert the plug wire over to the much better “terminal” type connector instead of the thread in “screw type”. I “mocked up” a few different routes for the plug wire and once I found the best path I marked the wire so that the fitting was properly “clocked”:
Then crimped the fitting on and fill it with die electric:
Spark Plug Wire ground location:
Last thing to do was run the “tach” wire for the hour meter/tach:
Heres a few completed setup pics:
It wasn't until I took a comparison video that I saw for myself how big of a difference this coil makes! See for yourself:
All stock setup:
All Nology setup:
I was really impressed once I took the bike for a test ride. The first thing I noticed was how soon the bike would idle after being started. Its was well below 50 degrees at the time. On the stock ignition I would have to "keep the bike alive" for the first minute or two while it was on the choke. Then once the choke was shut off id have to once again blip the throttle for another minute or two before the bike would idle smoothly on its own. With the Nology setup the bike would idle almost immediately after it was started and only required a couple "blips" of the throttle after shutting off the choke. It sat and idled for 10 minutes just fine while I cleaned up my mess. The bike has never pulled through the rpms smoother than it does now and all signs of ignition issues are completely gone!
This is my first, first hand experience with Nology products. All my prior experiences were second hand from my automotive buddies. I was unaware Nology offered dirt bike applications until I stumbled upon them in the Parts Unlimited catalog while shopping for a replacement for my old, stiff stock plug wire on my 2003 CR250R. I called them for a few tech questions I had and was offered a setup to try out. Even after I warned them that I am brutally honest and “tell it like it is” they didn’t hesitate for a second at the challenge. That alone peaked my interest!
Here is what the stock setup looked like “before”:
The instructions warn against cutting any closer than 2 inches from the “capacitor” so I chose 3 for safety:
Unthread the stock wire and you will see what looks like a wood screw poking up:
I slipped a piece of heat shrink and the OEM boot on the end and then threaded the Nology wire in. Then shrunk it down and slipped the boot back into position:
Super simple and clean!
I routed the wire near the frame spar so I could zip tie it and keep everything clean and tidy:
The ground wire eyelet was the perfect size for the exhaust valve cover:
They supplied me with a Nology “Silver” plug which has a bluish purple anti-fouling coating. After a full practice day at SVMX and a few gallons of race gas later, I can honestly say im impressed! The coating seems to deliver, what do you think?
I did a few short vids after each change to illustrate the differences. See for yourself:
Stock ignition wire, NGK plug
Stock ignition wire, Nology Silver plug
Nology wire, NGK plug
Nology wire, Nology Silver plug
To me it was hard to tell the differences until I got to the Nology wire and Nology plug. When I checked out that footage I was surprised to see the increase in brightness. It wasnt as drastic as some of the photos ive seen on the Nology website but in all fairness this is with the stock ignition coil and not a high performance coil. I can say that even though the bike was not hard to start before this mod, it certainly seems easier now. There also seems to be a throttle response increase, although small. The most noticeable change to me has been how smooth the bike idles and pulls through the rpms now. I have to give this setup the highest marks across the board:
High "bling factor"
Super easy install
Top quality materials and build
Plug is priced on par with competing brands
Only somewhat negative I could find is the anti fouling coating on the plug. It works great! But if you are the kind of person who does a lot of "plug chops" when you are tuning the lack of build up could throw you off. So it depends on what type of person you are. Me personally, id rather have the anti fouling coating, but I tune more by feel and sound, than I do what a plug chop shows.
************************************************
A little while back I sent my 03 CR250R cylinder head in for the "100 octane mod" changes. They fixed Honda's quench volume issues and also raised the compression. Right afterwards I started experiencing signs of weak ignition which wasnt a surprise as raising compression can quickly expose weakness in this area. I started looking into upgrading my ignition. First I started with the spark plug wire as this is a common issue on these bikes. After stumbling on Nology products in the Parts Unlimited catalog I called to ask some recommendations. They sent me a Nology wire and matching Nology Silver Plug. This combination made a substantial improvement but was not “optomized” due to the weak stock coil. Nology sent me their “ProFire” coil to try out and here is how the install went.
I could have taken the easy way out and simply zip tied the coil to the frame spars and called it a day. But those who know me well know that I like to make things look clean and professional. The Nology Coil comes with very sturdy mounting lugs. So I took a piece of “L” channel aluminum (gotta save weight you know! HAHA) and made a simple bracket to mount the coil to the stock tab locations. Since these coils are not “self grounding” I added a ground wire to the mount bracket:
Next thing to do was extend the “hot” lead a few inches. Honda was apparently running short on copper wire when they made my bike. Even with the stock coil the lead barely reached. Just like the ground wire, its always solder, shrink, and die electric when I wire something. Used black wire again so it doesn’t stand out:
Next thing to do was bolt the coil up and plug the wires in:
Next thing to do is convert the plug wire over to the much better “terminal” type connector instead of the thread in “screw type”. I “mocked up” a few different routes for the plug wire and once I found the best path I marked the wire so that the fitting was properly “clocked”:
Then crimped the fitting on and fill it with die electric:
Spark Plug Wire ground location:
Last thing to do was run the “tach” wire for the hour meter/tach:
Heres a few completed setup pics:
It wasn't until I took a comparison video that I saw for myself how big of a difference this coil makes! See for yourself:
All stock setup:
All Nology setup:
I was really impressed once I took the bike for a test ride. The first thing I noticed was how soon the bike would idle after being started. Its was well below 50 degrees at the time. On the stock ignition I would have to "keep the bike alive" for the first minute or two while it was on the choke. Then once the choke was shut off id have to once again blip the throttle for another minute or two before the bike would idle smoothly on its own. With the Nology setup the bike would idle almost immediately after it was started and only required a couple "blips" of the throttle after shutting off the choke. It sat and idled for 10 minutes just fine while I cleaned up my mess. The bike has never pulled through the rpms smoother than it does now and all signs of ignition issues are completely gone!
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
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- britincali
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- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
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ill believe it helped, just replacing the resistor wire and cap on my cr 125 made a big diffrence
btw clean work, when i get something new its usualy held on with tape the first weekend
btw clean work, when i get something new its usualy held on with tape the first weekend
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish
- Roostius_Maximus
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I would have shouted BULLSHIT, but it looks like its doing the trick.
I think the PVL system i just sold had the same coil, almost certain the same numbers were on it.
I know from our own testing the Irridium plug I like to use on my '88 250 ignition doesnt work on the 2000+ systems worth a dammn. 1-2 hours and the plug is dead, not just something wierd, dead.
Can you post up the costs?
I think the PVL system i just sold had the same coil, almost certain the same numbers were on it.
I know from our own testing the Irridium plug I like to use on my '88 250 ignition doesnt work on the 2000+ systems worth a dammn. 1-2 hours and the plug is dead, not just something wierd, dead.
Can you post up the costs?
http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore
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MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
I wanted Mr. Dragonlady to post this to reinforce one important point...
99.99999999999999999% of the time, when you require weird jetting, or when you make a "normal" jetting change and get a "abnormal" result.... its not the carb, the weather, or the motor.... its almost always electrics.
I'm glad Justin got this sorted out, the clock was ticking on when he was going to wad it up.
Having the motor quit on the face of a double isnt a good way , to start the day.
99.99999999999999999% of the time, when you require weird jetting, or when you make a "normal" jetting change and get a "abnormal" result.... its not the carb, the weather, or the motor.... its almost always electrics.
I'm glad Justin got this sorted out, the clock was ticking on when he was going to wad it up.
Having the motor quit on the face of a double isnt a good way , to start the day.
It cant. You can splice some kind of device into the wiring harness to retard the spark ( i.e., delay the signal from the CDI to the coil) but how can a device be spliced into the harness to advance the spark ( send a siginal that hasent even occured yet)rsss396 wrote:... and will normally give about 2 degrees of ignition advance.
Not gonna happen.
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- britincali
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AlisoBob wrote:A new OEM coil would have done the trick too..... obviously thats where the issue was.
Definatly an issue somewhere with the coil/wire/plug/ground, you just replaced everything to fix the problem. Kinda like what techs today do....
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
- britincali
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- DieHard2Smoke
- Posts: 50
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wanna bet on that?AlisoBob wrote:It cant. You can splice some kind of device into the wiring harness to retard the spark ( i.e., delay the signal from the CDI to the coil) but how can a device be spliced into the harness to advance the spark ( send a siginal that hasent even occured yet)rsss396 wrote:... and will normally give about 2 degrees of ignition advance.
Not gonna happen.
I have owned and tested the roost boost
explain to everyone why when you remove .273" from the trailing edge(right side) on the tab it will advance your ignition timing 7 degrees on a 250r flywheel.
I don't post bullshit
- 2strokekyle
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The coil MSRP is $94.95 so we sell it for just over $80. The wire is $48.95 MSRP so would be around $44. We dont have access to the plugs yet but Nology said they are around $8 MSRP so they are similar to an "R" plug and less than Iridiums.
I didnt get into detail with Nology about the non-resister plugs but they were very clear about max performance coming from non-R plugs. I have ran it both ways and you can see a hotter spark with the non-R plugs.
Resisters raise voltage and reduce RF interference, neither of which is real important on my bike unless I install a CD player one day.
I was warned by someone with a different bike that he had to run R plugs or the CDI would not function correctly. Not sure why that effected his 250 and not mine.
I didnt get into detail with Nology about the non-resister plugs but they were very clear about max performance coming from non-R plugs. I have ran it both ways and you can see a hotter spark with the non-R plugs.
Resisters raise voltage and reduce RF interference, neither of which is real important on my bike unless I install a CD player one day.
I was warned by someone with a different bike that he had to run R plugs or the CDI would not function correctly. Not sure why that effected his 250 and not mine.
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
2006 YZ450F
2005 CBR1000RR
1997 Banshee
Really not much just testing your knowledge of ignitions and how things interact.AlisoBob wrote:What does physically altering the flywheel have to do with a inline doo-dad?rsss396 wrote:..explain to everyone why when you remove .273" from the trailing edge(right side) on the tab it will advance your ignition timing 7 degrees on a 250r flywheel.
First I don't come on here to be a know it all
But I will tell you this, what I post will be either my real hands on experiences or my understanding of the subject and if I don't have a clue I won't chime in.
I can definitely be wrong at times as I am not perfect by a long shot but I also do not have to much pride that I can't admit to being wrong.
I enjoy healthy discussion thats why I hang out on allot of forums and only interact in the Tech sections because things with a motor are a passion for me.
So if you would have just asked how can a passive device could make time move forward.
I would have just gave you my theory of how I feel it accomplishes this.
And just to point out I am NOT a Electrical Engineer but I am a electrician in a steel mill so I have a good understanding of electricity.
The way I believe it is advancing the ignition timing is with a capacitor and resistor.
With a resistance-capacitance circuit the current can lead voltage from 0-90 degrees out of 180 degrees.
Here is a link to a example: http://ecmweb.com/mag/606ecmINSIDEPQfigA.jpg
I want to thank you Bob for making me dig out my electrical books at work tonight. Its been 15 years since I read them and boy am I rusty on this circuit stuff.
Here is a couple pictures of examples from my book
normal wave - voltage and current in phase
capacitor and capcitor and resistor showing the current leading voltage
Really not much just testing your knowledge of ignitions and how things interact.AlisoBob wrote:What does physically altering the flywheel have to do with a inline doo-dad?rsss396 wrote:..explain to everyone why when you remove .273" from the trailing edge(right side) on the tab it will advance your ignition timing 7 degrees on a 250r flywheel.
First I don't come on here to be a know it all
But I will tell you this, what I post will be either my real hands on experiences or my understanding of the subject and if I don't have a clue I won't chime in.
I can definitely be wrong at times as I am not perfect by a long shot but I also do not have to much pride that I can't admit to being wrong.
I enjoy healthy discussion thats why I hang out on allot of forums and only interact in the Tech sections because things with a motor are a passion for me.
So if you would have just asked how can a passive device could make time move forward.
I would have just gave you my theory of how I feel it accomplishes this.
And just to point out I am NOT a Electrical Engineer but I am a electrician in a steel mill so I have a good understanding of electricity.
The way I believe it is advancing the ignition timing is with a capacitor and resistor.
With a resistance-capacitance circuit the current can lead voltage from 0-90 degrees out of 180 degrees.
Here is a link to a example: http://ecmweb.com/mag/606ecmINSIDEPQfigA.jpg
I want to thank you Bob for making me dig out my electrical books at work tonight. Its been 15 years since I read them and boy am I rusty on this circuit stuff.
Here is a couple pictures of examples from my book
normal wave - voltage and current in phase
capacitor and capcitor and resistor showing the current leading voltage
- 2strokeforever
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looks like this does the same thing, normaly id laugh this off as a gimmik, but the tests look pretty good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt2z4vDl ... re=related
heres a real gimmik
[/img]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt2z4vDl ... re=related
heres a real gimmik
[/img]
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish
I got a Roost Boost I'll sell you
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- NightBiker07
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I'm with bob. You cannot advance something that hasnt happened yet. You could, however, retard the timing with the "roost boost".
I want to see a test here, if you are so convinced of the roost boost.
set up a flywheel and ignition, and hook the output of the stator up to a recording device along with the final spark output and spin the flywheel and record the results.
I want to see just how many times the spark happens BEFORE the flywheel magnet passes the stator pickup......If it actually does this, then "roost boost" is really a time machine....then you can start finishing races before they start too!
I want to see a test here, if you are so convinced of the roost boost.
set up a flywheel and ignition, and hook the output of the stator up to a recording device along with the final spark output and spin the flywheel and record the results.
I want to see just how many times the spark happens BEFORE the flywheel magnet passes the stator pickup......If it actually does this, then "roost boost" is really a time machine....then you can start finishing races before they start too!
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce
1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6
Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6
Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.