Seized Swingarm Bolt

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 27th, 2009, 7:55 pm

ISBB wrote:grab wiggle twist I have never seemed to have found a "Method" that works for me

I dont think I've done it the same way , twice.....

nmdesertrider · Post by **nmdesertrider** » April 27th, 2009, 8:30 pm

Somehow the F word comes into play many many times.

KE 336 · Post by **KE 336** » April 27th, 2009, 9:02 pm

Okay guys, I've had my shower and just finished my 3rd beer and about to hit the sack. I've got the bolt out with the motor just waiting on me tomorrow afternoon. I hadn't even planned on starting on this task this early in the week, so I'm a happy camper at the moment. I was just hoping someone might have some tips since this is my first time on a 500. There usually is a "trick" to everything.
Does the shock and/or exhaust flange or anything else for that matter have to come off to get it out? I'm hoping to get it out as Whole as possible.
Desertrider, I think I'm already in the penalty box for over usage of the F word.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » April 28th, 2009, 8:20 am

you got lucky, when I pulled my '86 motor I had to cut the swingarm. I even found some punches that would fit inside the bolt with a shoulder to grab it so I wouldn't have the hit the bolt directly and went to town on it with a 10lb sledge. soaked it in everything! and when I finally cut it out, I had to cut the bolt in 3 places and cut the front right mount on the frame

, then I still couldn't get the bolt out of the motor, when I finally did (by knocking a bushing out) I found that the bolt was rusted to hell, like some water got trapper between the 2 case bushings and so that gap had like 1/4" of rust stopping the bolt from going through. what a PITA

hoofarted · Post by **hoofarted** » April 28th, 2009, 8:21 am

I would pull the exhaust flange, subframe w/airboot attached out and ya should be good.

KE 336 · Post by **KE 336** » April 29th, 2009, 6:05 am

I went out yesterday afternoon and got it pulled. I had the mind set that I wouldn't fight it and wasn't going to get pissed off. I gave just a few pulls and wiggles without luck. I then pulled the subframe as hoofarted suggested just so I could see things better and maybe find what the hold up is. A few more tries and no luck, I decided the swingarm was the problem. I took two screws holding the brake assm. loose, remove lower linkage bolt and top shock bolt out. The rear wheel was on and I was able to roll the entire swingarm assembly brakes and all away from the bike like a unicycle. At that point, the motor just about jumps out on it's own!
Well not really on its own but, I was able to pick it up and twist out in one motion with ease. To me, moving the swingarm at the start is the only way to go. It took less than 5 minutes to get it out of the way and saves a ton of aggrevation!

dubious01 · Post by **dubious01** » October 4th, 2010, 10:04 am

top....
yeah luck has been on the wrong side for me

Gmbond · Post by **Gmbond** » October 4th, 2010, 2:39 pm

When I was working on my donor I found the dreaded seized swingarm bolt. My solution was to pull everything else off the frame but the motor and the swingarm. Then pick it up and put the whole unit into a hydraulic press. Supporting the underside with a big socket and using a shouldered drift punch I started cranking on it. Loud pop later it then came free

gregrobo · Post by **gregrobo** » October 4th, 2010, 4:34 pm

you got lucky gmbond i seen a bloke blow the engine cases apart doing like that to i had to cut the swingarm bolt either side of the motor in my 01 500 to free the motor

dubious01 · Post by **dubious01** » October 4th, 2010, 6:37 pm

well, I let it soak for a while, and bought new sawzall blades.
I think zip cut is gonna be the tool of choice though... sawzall blades don't like the hard bearings or the tool steel bushing much.

I heated the fak out of the swingarm with map gas and could hear everything crackling and popping, once it cooled a little, I sprayed it with kroil, hoping the heat would assist with drawing the penetrant in.

Gmbond · Post by **Gmbond** » October 4th, 2010, 7:24 pm

You may be right about getting lucky. I didn't put a ton of pressure to it before it moved but the bigger hammer method and the air hammer had no effect soooo next time was to use bigger and more expensive tools as needed

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » October 4th, 2010, 8:02 pm

I had to cut the swingarm off my '86...

dubious01 · Post by **dubious01** » October 6th, 2010, 1:01 pm

yeah I should have listened to my inner voice and just used my plasma cutter!
Oh well I wiil do so next week when I get back home.

besides whats more cool than a 20,000 degree celcius flame , melting metal and spewing it across the floor, .... kinda like a dragon taking a big ole cr500 shit! haha

bearorso · Post by **bearorso** » October 7th, 2010, 1:08 am

All that greif because a drongo that should never have been allowed near a bike couldn't take the time to put a light smear of grease on a bolt - one of the things that shits me to tears, when you find the resultant corrosion.

craigf40 · Post by **craigf40** » October 7th, 2010, 2:22 am

Hope this will help some one in future i have also once had to strip a bike down completely and put the whole frame in a press.The next bike i came across with the same problem i taped a thread in the center of the bolt if i remember right it was m12 bolt and made myself a slide hammer and pulled it out like that ...it did take a good hammering but at least i got away with stripping the whole bike down and pressing it out in a press.

gregrobo · Post by **gregrobo** » October 7th, 2010, 4:19 am

simple solution to greasing fit grease nipples to the bolts and every time you wash it a couple pumps of grease and no siezed swinger ever again it took me a saturday to do and cost like $10 bucks

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » October 7th, 2010, 7:24 am

when I brought my kawi home brand new, I took it for 1 ride that weekend, brought it home, washed it, then tore it down to grease everything

they put a tiny drop on all the bearings and put the bolts in dry from the factory.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » October 7th, 2010, 10:38 pm

I always pack the "void area" in the cases between the bushings with grease before I slide the pivot shaft through. As Wook said the rust is always between the bushings and the pivot shaft...

dubious01 · Post by **dubious01** » October 8th, 2010, 4:26 pm

faak that doesn't sound good, even when I hack the swingarm off the bolt, the fakker might be stuck in my cases?

Post by **AlisoBob** » October 8th, 2010, 4:35 pm

The real problem is wheh this happens.... Its siezed on the "head" side of the swing arm bolt.

You take the nut off and start pounding away... and all the pounding expands the bolt like a rivet....

Its never coming out now.

If a few good blows dont budge it , DONT KEEP BEATING ON IT!!!! Use some heat, some lube, some prayers.... just dont expand it.

britincali · Post by **britincali** » October 8th, 2010, 4:47 pm

Has anyone ever tried giving it a huge slap on the bolt head side first?

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » October 8th, 2010, 4:56 pm

I was thinking some "metal prep" dripped into the gap between the swing arm and case bushings...

dubious01 · Post by **dubious01** » October 9th, 2010, 7:43 am

all points taken and will be heeded... thanks guys.
Will see what comes of it when i get home in a few days

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » October 9th, 2010, 5:40 pm

what about heating the area, then fill the hole with dry ice??...
then get a jackhammer?

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » October 9th, 2010, 9:27 pm

BannedCR500Riders.com

Seized Swingarm Bolt