Tire Changing
Posted: December 12th, 2009, 10:39 am
I had a flat front the other day when we unloaded to ride... I filled it up, and luckily it held air all day... If it didnt, heres a good tutorial on fixing it... Stolen from: http://www.cycoactive.com/
Study this diagram!The most important tip!
Understand that to get the bead over the rim, you have to press it into the recess on the opposite side!!!
"Changing a Tube in the Woods"
It often takes hours to drive to a riding area; don't worry about the half-hour it takes to fix a flat. Changing a tube on the trail is much easier than changing the whole tire. It doesn't have to ruin your day and the stuff you need weighs only 2 1/2 lbs. Twenty miles on a flat is a BUMMER. Believe me, it's easier to change it than ride it out, and the fun's over for everyone if you're the leader. Besides, front tires are easy - and half the wheels on your bike fall into this category. Being self-sufficient in the woods is important! It will make everyone happier - you, your riding partners, and your family. Remember - "The rim you save may be your own!"
Learn to do it yourself.
We're off-road motorcyclists. We LIKE to make things a little tougher; otherwise we would take the road. When you get to a tough hill, do you get off and pay someone else to ride it up the hill? Not if you ever dream of becoming a better rider. Same thing with tires. You CAN do it, and you'll be a better off-roader for it. DON'T let the shop install your tires until you've learned how to do it yourself.
Start by doing the front yourself. Get a hand pump or a $20.00 inflator that plugs into the 12V receptacle in your car. Discard the spoke band and cover the spoke ends with good tape, two layers max. Excess tape in the rim recess will make it harder to change tires. And remember that changing a tube is only half as hard as changing a tire. Get in the habit of using only the tools you carry in your toolbag to work on your bike. This will ensure that you have everything you need and that your toolbag's not full of junk tools. Once you get it set up, never 'borrow' tools from it; keep it sacred and separate from your normal toolbox. When you strap it on, it has everything, always.
On the trail, bring two 8 1/2" tire irons, a CO2 inflator, at least three CO2s, and wrenches for the axle and the rimlock. Put valve core removal caps on both wheels. A patch kit is usable if you have extra air to find the hole(s), and test it. A long nail can make a hundred holes on the other side, and often the valve stem tears out. Carry a front tube - it fits in the rear better than a rear fits in the front. (Yes - it works - all the pros do it.)
At this point it is assumed that the reader has at least changed a tire at home, and is familiar with the brake mechanism and chain adjustment.
Upright is easiest. First, get the wheel off the ground. If you have a kickstand, put it down and scoot the bike up against a tree, or use a stick on the opposite side to prop it up so the rear wheel is off the ground. Put all loose parts back where they came from. (If you can't develop this habit, pack a magnet in your toolbag). If you must disturb the chain adjusters, count the number of tic marks and write it in the dirt so you won't forget. Pull the axle out, push the wheel forward, and derail the chain on the outside of the sprocket.
Set the wheel sprocket-side down. Undo the rimlock nut to the last few threads, then remove the core and the nut from the valve stem. Since you rode awhile with the tire flat, you've already 'broken the bead', and the tire's ready to come off. Do it quickly, while the tire is still warm (and soft).
The more of the bead that's pressed into the recess (with your knees), the easier it will be to pry the bead over the rim on the other side. This is why you start at the center, between the rimlock and the valve. Use the 'hook' side of the iron to pry the bead off. Study the drawing and think about what's happening. If it's too hard, you're doing it wrong. If the pros can do it in four minutes, there must be a trick to it. One trick is to choose tire brands and models that are easier to change. Ask around.
KNOW what caused the flat.
This is very important! A snakebite always has two (or four) big holes, and deflates quickly, while you are still wondering if you hit that rock too hard. A small nail or wire will be hard to find, but you must find it! Take your time. A rag will usually snag on it, and won't bleed like your finger. If you put a new tube in on top of an old nail, you'll have some explaining to do at the next campfire. The air can only escape through a hole or through the valve stem. Most guys hang a loogie on the valve stem and watch for bubbles. (Ever hear about the mechanic from San Francisco who 'lost' a tire iron while fixing a flat at Barstow-to-Vegas? He found it inside his tire a few miles later.)
Remove the core, and inflate the new tube halfway by cussing into the valve stem. Replace the core and stuff the tube in, valve first. Distribute it evenly, and be SURE that it is ON TOP of the rimlock. Insert the iron only 1/4 - 3/8 inch past the edge of the rim. Use the straight side (not the hook) to reinstall the bead so you don't pinch the new tube with the tire iron. Be very careful when going beyond vertical with the iron - this is where the tube gets pinched. Again, take your time. (It's a lot like biting the inside of your cheek when the eatin's good.)
Start in the center, between the valve and rimlock. Alternate small 'bites' left and right. Keep your knees on the tire to press the bead into the recess. Finish at the center on the other side. Straighten out the valve stem, and put the nut on. Inflate the tire before tightening the rimlock. It usually takes a minimum of two CO2s for a front and three for a rear. Put the wheel back on and check the alignment, chain tension and brake adjustment.
Some General tire hints:
Don't ride thru campfires, even when extinguished - they're full of nails.
Any lube helps to change a tire - talcum powder, soap, water. WD-40 is the best 'cause it's hella-slippery and dries sticky! But it's hard to carry. Spitting while cussing seems to help a little.
Some tire brands are easier to install than others. In general the higher-quality tires install easier. Pirellis and Metzelers are easy. IRC s are OK. Dunlop 6-plys are difficult. Remember that front tires are easy.
Patches work! Clean and roughen the surface, removing all of the smooth surface and exposing clean, uncontaminated virgin rubber. Add the goop sparingly and never touch the mating surfaces - especially the edges! Wait five full minutes then apply the patch in a rolling motion to prevent bubbles. Leave the cellophane on. Pound it down with a screwdriver handle. The edges are the most important part - squish them down carefully, all the way around. If people in the Third-World can do it, cutting their patches from old inner tubes, you should be able to figure it out using a real patch kit.
If you're using a pump, first remove the valve core, the tire will pump much faster. When you remove the pump, you have to quickly cover the stem with your finger, then install the valve without losing too much air. You usually have to overinflate to seat the tire anyway. Try it sometime, I know it sounds backwards, but it's really significantly faster, especially if you have a small pump!
Study this diagram!The most important tip!
Understand that to get the bead over the rim, you have to press it into the recess on the opposite side!!!
"Changing a Tube in the Woods"
It often takes hours to drive to a riding area; don't worry about the half-hour it takes to fix a flat. Changing a tube on the trail is much easier than changing the whole tire. It doesn't have to ruin your day and the stuff you need weighs only 2 1/2 lbs. Twenty miles on a flat is a BUMMER. Believe me, it's easier to change it than ride it out, and the fun's over for everyone if you're the leader. Besides, front tires are easy - and half the wheels on your bike fall into this category. Being self-sufficient in the woods is important! It will make everyone happier - you, your riding partners, and your family. Remember - "The rim you save may be your own!"
Learn to do it yourself.
We're off-road motorcyclists. We LIKE to make things a little tougher; otherwise we would take the road. When you get to a tough hill, do you get off and pay someone else to ride it up the hill? Not if you ever dream of becoming a better rider. Same thing with tires. You CAN do it, and you'll be a better off-roader for it. DON'T let the shop install your tires until you've learned how to do it yourself.
Start by doing the front yourself. Get a hand pump or a $20.00 inflator that plugs into the 12V receptacle in your car. Discard the spoke band and cover the spoke ends with good tape, two layers max. Excess tape in the rim recess will make it harder to change tires. And remember that changing a tube is only half as hard as changing a tire. Get in the habit of using only the tools you carry in your toolbag to work on your bike. This will ensure that you have everything you need and that your toolbag's not full of junk tools. Once you get it set up, never 'borrow' tools from it; keep it sacred and separate from your normal toolbox. When you strap it on, it has everything, always.
On the trail, bring two 8 1/2" tire irons, a CO2 inflator, at least three CO2s, and wrenches for the axle and the rimlock. Put valve core removal caps on both wheels. A patch kit is usable if you have extra air to find the hole(s), and test it. A long nail can make a hundred holes on the other side, and often the valve stem tears out. Carry a front tube - it fits in the rear better than a rear fits in the front. (Yes - it works - all the pros do it.)
At this point it is assumed that the reader has at least changed a tire at home, and is familiar with the brake mechanism and chain adjustment.
Upright is easiest. First, get the wheel off the ground. If you have a kickstand, put it down and scoot the bike up against a tree, or use a stick on the opposite side to prop it up so the rear wheel is off the ground. Put all loose parts back where they came from. (If you can't develop this habit, pack a magnet in your toolbag). If you must disturb the chain adjusters, count the number of tic marks and write it in the dirt so you won't forget. Pull the axle out, push the wheel forward, and derail the chain on the outside of the sprocket.
Set the wheel sprocket-side down. Undo the rimlock nut to the last few threads, then remove the core and the nut from the valve stem. Since you rode awhile with the tire flat, you've already 'broken the bead', and the tire's ready to come off. Do it quickly, while the tire is still warm (and soft).
The more of the bead that's pressed into the recess (with your knees), the easier it will be to pry the bead over the rim on the other side. This is why you start at the center, between the rimlock and the valve. Use the 'hook' side of the iron to pry the bead off. Study the drawing and think about what's happening. If it's too hard, you're doing it wrong. If the pros can do it in four minutes, there must be a trick to it. One trick is to choose tire brands and models that are easier to change. Ask around.
KNOW what caused the flat.
This is very important! A snakebite always has two (or four) big holes, and deflates quickly, while you are still wondering if you hit that rock too hard. A small nail or wire will be hard to find, but you must find it! Take your time. A rag will usually snag on it, and won't bleed like your finger. If you put a new tube in on top of an old nail, you'll have some explaining to do at the next campfire. The air can only escape through a hole or through the valve stem. Most guys hang a loogie on the valve stem and watch for bubbles. (Ever hear about the mechanic from San Francisco who 'lost' a tire iron while fixing a flat at Barstow-to-Vegas? He found it inside his tire a few miles later.)
Remove the core, and inflate the new tube halfway by cussing into the valve stem. Replace the core and stuff the tube in, valve first. Distribute it evenly, and be SURE that it is ON TOP of the rimlock. Insert the iron only 1/4 - 3/8 inch past the edge of the rim. Use the straight side (not the hook) to reinstall the bead so you don't pinch the new tube with the tire iron. Be very careful when going beyond vertical with the iron - this is where the tube gets pinched. Again, take your time. (It's a lot like biting the inside of your cheek when the eatin's good.)
Start in the center, between the valve and rimlock. Alternate small 'bites' left and right. Keep your knees on the tire to press the bead into the recess. Finish at the center on the other side. Straighten out the valve stem, and put the nut on. Inflate the tire before tightening the rimlock. It usually takes a minimum of two CO2s for a front and three for a rear. Put the wheel back on and check the alignment, chain tension and brake adjustment.
Some General tire hints:
Don't ride thru campfires, even when extinguished - they're full of nails.
Any lube helps to change a tire - talcum powder, soap, water. WD-40 is the best 'cause it's hella-slippery and dries sticky! But it's hard to carry. Spitting while cussing seems to help a little.
Some tire brands are easier to install than others. In general the higher-quality tires install easier. Pirellis and Metzelers are easy. IRC s are OK. Dunlop 6-plys are difficult. Remember that front tires are easy.
Patches work! Clean and roughen the surface, removing all of the smooth surface and exposing clean, uncontaminated virgin rubber. Add the goop sparingly and never touch the mating surfaces - especially the edges! Wait five full minutes then apply the patch in a rolling motion to prevent bubbles. Leave the cellophane on. Pound it down with a screwdriver handle. The edges are the most important part - squish them down carefully, all the way around. If people in the Third-World can do it, cutting their patches from old inner tubes, you should be able to figure it out using a real patch kit.
If you're using a pump, first remove the valve core, the tire will pump much faster. When you remove the pump, you have to quickly cover the stem with your finger, then install the valve without losing too much air. You usually have to overinflate to seat the tire anyway. Try it sometime, I know it sounds backwards, but it's really significantly faster, especially if you have a small pump!
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