BannedCR500Riders.com

The instructions supplied by Magura seemed overly complex in regards to the bleeding proceedures... Having air in the system is about all that you can do wrong.

With this in mind, I set mine up this way.. it works perfectly. I also used vac line as a sleeve for a little protection.



First removed the slave cylinder from the bike and position it as low as possible. Then pop off the plastic cap, and push up on the rod to expose the piston. Do this over a pail or plastic tub as some fluid is going to escape. This is what you want, so dont worry.



Next, pop off the master cyl cover and add fluid to the top. It will drain fast enough to carry along any air in the line down to the slave cyl, then bubble up out the top in to your pail. Keep the master full as it drains quickly. DO NOT PUMP IT! Gravity will do all the work. In this photo, it just filled it, and picked up the camera. Yea, it drains quickly!!!! Refill it 3 - 4 times





Cohesion will allow the slave to overfill if it is held plumb.. Once you are sure that no air remains in the system, carefully push the piston back in untill flush.




At this point you can put the plastic cap back on. LIGHTLY squeeze the clutch handle and feel the instant resistance the plastic cap provides. It should have ZERO sponginess to its feel. DO NOT SQUEEZE HARD AND BLOW THE CAP OFF!!




Gently pull the rod out and reinstall the slave cyl carefully. I checked the throw of slave cyl and it started at 15.7mm and ended at 5.5mm, so it's about 10.2mm. This is about the same as the stock cable throw.Your numbers will be a little diffrent as the thickness of your plates and discs are different, but the overall throw number should be the same. This is with a few turns of the small red adjusting screw at the clutch lever. If this screw is all the way in, the throw is almost 12m, but the lever is pretty far out.

With this set up I can easily turn the tire by hand, in gear, with the clutch pulled in. I can continue to rotate the tire until the clutch lever is released about 50%. The feel is very nice and smooth.

All of this is with no additional spacers. I sometimes see guys adding spacers under the slave cylinder to try to increase the throw... DONT DO THIS!!! Getting ALL the air out is the key. Magura isnt going to supply instructions on bleeding it by letting it drip all over the place, but this sems to work very well.

thanks bob. way better than the magura instructions. I must have had air in mine

I usd to buy these for under 200 bucks and I can't find one for under 250 right now. What the hell, when did they go up so much?

Mik329 wrote:I usd to buy these for under 200 bucks and I can't find one for under 250 right now. What the hell, when did they go up so much?

I've seen several on Ebay for around $190.

what kinds of oil work??? it says mineral oil, is that the same stuff you buy at a pharmacy???

im planning on using magura blood, but id like to know what else will work in case i cant get any magura blood when i need it

the ktm dudes I know use spectro fluid

Baby oil

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equate-Baby-O ... u=10532776

$3 = 20 oz.

Mineral oil is Mineral oil....

the team here uses that

Brakes need brake fluid to handle the boiling issue... BUT... brake fluid absorbes water from the atsmosphere.

Clutch actuation is heat free, so Magura went with Baby oil as mineral oil does not absorb water.

Buy the big jug so you have some for later

There goes the weekend.....

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/off-top ... s-nws.html

Roostmaster so thats what you were up to out the back of the track

has anyone experimented with diffrent diameter master cylinder piston sizes?

i think it would be good to have a smaller one because the freeplay isnt at the lever so you could have it easier and still have the same throw as stock

mine works great but its not that much easier to pull, but no clutch fade is the main reason i bought it

A properly adjusted cable wont fade either.

What does "Fade" have to do with actuation?

i've only recently got the magura, robertg had the one i have now, it works, something i dont like is how i cant push a stalled bike in gear with it, cant kick it to start while its in gear either, the new cable and wurtz lever with a bearing was so sweet and similar in pull that i could do both and the bike would push like a 10speed while in gear

i've only recently got the magura, robertg had the one i have now, it works, something i dont like is how i cant push a stalled bike in gear with it, cant kick it to start while its in gear either, the new cable and wurtz lever with a bearing was so sweet and similar in pull that i could do both and the bike would push like a 10speed while in gear

there must be air in it , because i noticed the exact opposite of what you did, couldnt get in neutral rolling with the motor turned off, as soon as i got the magura could get it like i was stopped

A properly adjusted cable wont fade either.

tell that to my bike, i could tell how hot it is by how much it faded, i adjusted to manual specs , if i adjusted the tightest recomended freeplay 5mm and went through my favorite trail by the end id have almost an inch of freeplay... till i got rad fans then it only go to5/8' ish , magura compensates for it making the freeplay (0mm) stay the same, it keeps the "freeplay on the other end

What does "Fade" have to do with actuation?

when your coming up to a log a foot round and a foot off the ground in a tight trail and your clutch is faded so bad it dosent fully disengage so you have to give it gas to not stall and press the brake so you dont go, and try to set up to go over the log... shit goes downhill from there

the cable is almost as good if you adjust it every time your bike changes temperature


btw the cr500 magura comes with a 9.5mm master cylinder, i think they go down to 8.5mm

2strokeforever wrote:..i adjusted the tightest recomended freeplay 5mm and went through my favorite trail by the end id have almost an inch of freeplay...

You got issues....

2strokeforever wrote:

i've only recently got the magura, robertg had the one i have now, it works, something i dont like is how i cant push a stalled bike in gear with it, cant kick it to start while its in gear either, the new cable and wurtz lever with a bearing was so sweet and similar in pull that i could do both and the bike would push like a 10speed while in gear

there must be air in it , because i noticed the exact opposite of what you did, couldnt get in neutral rolling with the motor turned off, as soon as i got the magura could get it like i was stopped

A properly adjusted cable wont fade either.

tell that to my bike, i could tell how hot it is by how much it faded, i adjusted to manual specs , if i adjusted the tightest recomended freeplay 5mm and went through my favorite trail by the end id have almost an inch of freeplay... till i got rad fans then it only go to5/8' ish , magura compensates for it making the freeplay (0mm) stay the same, it keeps the "freeplay on the other end

What does "Fade" have to do with actuation?

when your coming up to a log a foot round and a foot off the ground in a tight trail and your clutch is faded so bad it dosent fully disengage so you have to give it gas to not stall and press the brake so you dont go, and try to set up to go over the log... shit goes downhill from there

the cable is almost as good if you adjust it every time your bike changes temperature


btw the cr500 magura comes with a 9.5mm master cylinder, i think they go down to 8.5mm

how much do you ride the clutch i havnt adjusted mine since i built the bike and i ride some tght single track

how much do you ride the clutch

enough that my left index finger is noticibly bigger than my right

like that KFC commercial

the trails i like i cant even keep the clutch out in 1st because its too tight, i try and pop it and let the back tire do the slipping instead of thee clutch, i also try to keep my bike running nice and lean on the low end so the motor gets really hot too
but i have radiator fans to help keep it cool
the clutch cover is too hot too hold my hand on for ,more than 10 seconds after a trail/trials ride (the deadfall dosent get cut out )

You got issues....

i figured that, but the magura masks them for now, and i doubt the stock basket will last long, so i will see when i replace the whole clutch with barnet


but the fade i have is directly related to how hot it is

sounds like you need a rekluse

rode 3 difrent bikes with a rekluse almost broke my arm on a tiny hill because of it and it completly crippled my riding ability, because i dont have FULL control of the clutch

i can honestly say id pay $1000+ to not to have one on my bike

k got the 9.0 mm master cylinder on my bike, works good, UTF rocks

also been doin this for a while and forgot to mention it, JB weld a carb vent tube to the gold cap and route it up over the headstay andd back down, keeps dirt out and theres no air trapped above the piston
it makes a noticable diffrence, with the 9mm, this, bearing lever, and moly paste lubed everything it is as easy as a brand new yz 250.... way better than stock, excellent feel and modulation too