BannedCR500Riders.com

i was reading on the internet about how streetbike stuntriders will take 2 springs out of their clutch, and im thinking why cant i do that if i know im going riding on some really tight slow 1st-2nd gear trails, where im not gonna be using more than 15 hp.....

or maybe swap all the springs out for 125 springs?
anyone tried this?

im gonna try it for sure (probably at maple ridge)
anyone see any obvious problems other than finding this steep soft deep sand hill a mile long and not being able to resist

also have a complete 250 clutch in the works should work out to be this:
barnett basket
new proX inner hub
250 clutch arm
new clutch bearing + bushing
new oem springs
new plates, anyone know which plates get the least clutch fade? so far oem and ebc are the same

all 250 washers spacers....... the only 500 part will be the big gear and springs

also got a 9.0 mm magura slave on its way and a new slave, and a new bearing lever
hopefully it makes it easy as a 250

The Barnett CARBON ( not Kevlar) plates are indestructable.

The only problem I can see is possibly warping due to unequal pressure.
I go the other way.
I put mx250 springs in my YZ125A, it was a bitch at first but I got used to it.
Absolutely no slippage, it's like a direct drive.
Coming off the starting line the first time it hooked up like my CR480 or the CR500.
Stood straight up in second gear.
Makes blasting berms fun too.

Springs are not the solution to a tired 500 clutch hand. With the terrain you ride you are really missing out and leaving a large advantage to your competitors.

kdizzle wrote:Springs are not the solution to a tired 500 clutch hand. With the terrain you ride you are really missing out and leaving a large advantage to your competitors.

Agreed.

Me?
My hand isn't tired.
I only use the clutch at the start, keeping a finger on it at all times though.
The heavier springs are working great for me.
After all, it is a vintage 125.
Same for the 480, start is all.
My 500 pulls light, like my 2001 CR250.

With the terrain you ride you are really missing out .

???
i just want it a little easier when i know im in 1st or 2nd all day, so i can run my tall gearing and not have a tired clutch hand after a full day

and leaving a large advantage to your competitors

i have to wait for them in the tight stuff and they smoke me on the open stuff, as far as tight stuff im not leaving anyone an advantage, just a castor oil smell

2strokeforever wrote:

With the terrain you ride you are really missing out .

???
i just want it a little easier when i know im in 1st or 2nd all day, so i can run my tall gearing and not have a tierd clutch hand after a full day

If you work harder on being smooth and don't worry about being fast, you won't have to use the clutch so much, and you WILL be faster AND less tired.

The key to fast is smooth.

good point mojo, but thats pretty much what i do, im never in a hurry unless im in a race

you won't have to use the clutch so much

i enjoy using the clutch, if i was trying to avoid the clutch id be all over 13/53 gearing, but i like using the clutch
i could get away with using it a lot less, but im smoother and happyer while roasting the clutch

im hoping since the stock clutch has no problems WFO 4th in a gravel pit that i could get away with less in the trails

im gonna try it eventualy

Not that I know anything about fast... except that I'm not.

Don't take this the wrong way, it's not a slam, I'm just pointing out what I see.

As much as you talk about despising the idea of an auto clutch because you prevent yourself from developing that skill, (a concept I wholly agree with) you sure seem determined to find some other way not to do that kind of learning. A 500 with a Magura is not that bad. It's honestly not any different than my YZ clutch. If you're actually having issues with it being too much, I really believe you're missing something in your skills toolbox.

Humor me. Just try avoiding the clutch until you NEED it and let the motor push you through stuff you would normally be clutching. It will make you better.

On the other site you mention concerns of your bike getting hot. Richen the pilot. It will run cooler. It will resist stalling better. It's not like you need the snap down that low. Maybe even richen the needle too. It'll drool, but it will run cooler. You'll just have to clutch it and blow it out when it starts loading up.

The only reason I feel comfortable even suggesting these things is that I have 16 years of riding a 500 week in and week out in terrain like yours. Gold Bar. Jetted properly can mean different things you know.

But again, I'm not fast.

...and I do run 13/51.

Richen the pilot. It will run cooler. It will resist stalling better. It's not like you need the snap down that low

your right, but i want all the snap i can get , yes the rich pilot resists stalling by a huge amount, but with the power wing deal i can have a real lean pilot and it has the same or better stalling resistance as rich jetting without the wing, and even more crisp power
think i will have the fans 100% sorted soon

If you're actually having issues with it being too much

not having issues, want not need, same as i want more power

I really believe you're missing something in your skills toolbox

riding ya, clutch maintenance impossible, lube the clutch (bearing) lever with either graphite or grease depending on where im riding
bled often with magura blood, lube the lifter arm with 40% molybedenum paste fairly often, keep oil reasonably fresh, clutch dosent have much grooving

Humor me. Just try avoiding the clutch until you NEED it and let the motor push you through stuff you would normally be clutching. It will make you better.

i am doing (i think) the same thing with the high gearing, forcing me to keep speed and look ahead to choose better lines, and if my fan charging system is crapped out i have to keep speed and go easy on the clutch to keep from overheating

The Barnett CARBON ( not Kevlar) plates are indestructable.

ok, but how are they for clutch fade?

No fade, and Ive cooked the living shit out of mine with 2nd gear starts in the dunes on nitrous.

sweet, my next fibers are gonna be barnett carbon,
did you get clutch fade with any other brand fibers tho ?

I went through 2 stockers and completly destroyed one EBC before I stepped up.

talked to a (fast) guy that ran kx250 springs in his kx5 for 2 years, said it worked just fine... but he has a huge FWW and dosent spend much time on the long hills... but he is also a giant


took my complete (washers too) 02-07 cr 250 clutch and dropped it on my engine, everything fit properly, EXCEPT the clutch shaft is a little too long
about the gears being smaller...

so to be perfectly clear complete 02+ 250 clutch and the clutch rod and it will work... might need heavier springs, ill be finding out

thanks roosty for helping me figure it out

I actually just replaced my clutch cable because it broke...the new cable made the clutch pull 1/2 of what it was

for anyone that cares, the 250 clutch rod is 7mm shorter than the 500 one

will report back when i know more

2strokeforever wrote:for anyone that cares, the 250 clutch rod is 7mm shorter than the 500 one

Was at the end of my adjustment on my hillclimber I figured it was time for a new clutch,pulled it out thing looked like new ????? But all adjustments were all the way in put a new clutch in it anyways only had allittle adjustment at the perch pulled the push rod back out and ground off like .045 tho. Put it back in,after I had to use the adjuster in the cable to get it close the fine tune with the perch!!!!!

My buddy Jason Pullen that stunts a Harley uses a MSR easy pull lever and a modified clutch arm, the pull on it fells like he has 1 spring in it with a buttered cable and allittle vasealine on the perch!!!! His hand would cramp after 5mins of tricks before now he can ride all day long