CR500 Engine Build Pictorial Part 5 (Final Installment)
CR500 Engine Build Pictorial Part 5 (Final Installment)
This is the final section of the build. I will cover cylinder and head
installation and finish with the intake and carburetor.
Squirt some clean two stroke oil into the ring landings of the piston.
Carefully spread the rings and install with the mark facing up and the
gap centered on the pin.
Install the two allignment dowels on the left side cylinder studs.
Place a new base gasket on the crankcase and carefully lower the cylinder
over the compressed rings until seated on the crankcase. Be careful not
to rotate the cylinder during this process because it is possible to snag and
break a ring.
Place several drops of oil on the landings and apply anti seize to the cylinder
studs.
Install the four flange nuts and using a torque extension tool, torque the
nuts to 29 lbft in three steps and in a criss cross pattern.
Install the coolant drain bolt into the left side of the cylinder using a new
copper washer and torque to 7 lbft. Install the exhaust flange using a new
gasket and torque the bolts to 7 lbft.
Place a new O-ring in the water hose joint.
Install the joint to the right side of the cylinder. Torque the bolts to 7 lbft.
Install the seven cylinder head studs into the top of the cylinder. Prep the
studs with Blue loctite on the bottom and antiseize higher up on the threads.
Torque the studs to 9 lbft. using oposing flange nuts or a stud installer.
Place a new head gasket with the "UP" mark facing aft onto the cylinder.
Install the cylinder head. Apply several drops of oil to the flange landings
and anti-seize to the threads.
Install the cylinder head flange nuts and torque to 20 lbft in three steps and
in a criss cross pattern. Next, install the coolant hose. If you use silicon
hose, make sure to use silicon hose specific hose clamps. These clamps
have a smooth surface around the worm gear and beveled edges so they
won't cut the hose like a normal clamp.
Next up is the intake. I am using a VForce 3 reed valve. This valve requires
the removal of the rubber reed stuffers present on the stock Honda intake.
Spray some Blue Permatex gasket adhesive on one of the gaskets included in
the VForce kit and allow it to tack up.
Place the gasket on the intake.
Install the VForce
Use the second included gasket between the VForce reed and the intake
and secure using the six hex flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 6.5 lbft.
Install the spark plug and perform a leak down test. This is a critical test
that will determine if the engine is air tight for all intents and purposes.
I use a Motion Pro tester and pump the engine to 6 psi before starting
the stop watch. This engine didn't lose any pressure over the 5 minutes
I measured - good enough for me. A pressure loss of 1psi/min is the
maximum you should allow. Any more than that and you will have
problems.
Next install the carburetor, in this case a 39.5mm Keihin PWK, and you are
done.
This engine should produce about 70 hp with a smooth useable
powerband.
dogger
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
installation and finish with the intake and carburetor.
Squirt some clean two stroke oil into the ring landings of the piston.
Carefully spread the rings and install with the mark facing up and the
gap centered on the pin.
Install the two allignment dowels on the left side cylinder studs.
Place a new base gasket on the crankcase and carefully lower the cylinder
over the compressed rings until seated on the crankcase. Be careful not
to rotate the cylinder during this process because it is possible to snag and
break a ring.
Place several drops of oil on the landings and apply anti seize to the cylinder
studs.
Install the four flange nuts and using a torque extension tool, torque the
nuts to 29 lbft in three steps and in a criss cross pattern.
Install the coolant drain bolt into the left side of the cylinder using a new
copper washer and torque to 7 lbft. Install the exhaust flange using a new
gasket and torque the bolts to 7 lbft.
Place a new O-ring in the water hose joint.
Install the joint to the right side of the cylinder. Torque the bolts to 7 lbft.
Install the seven cylinder head studs into the top of the cylinder. Prep the
studs with Blue loctite on the bottom and antiseize higher up on the threads.
Torque the studs to 9 lbft. using oposing flange nuts or a stud installer.
Place a new head gasket with the "UP" mark facing aft onto the cylinder.
Install the cylinder head. Apply several drops of oil to the flange landings
and anti-seize to the threads.
Install the cylinder head flange nuts and torque to 20 lbft in three steps and
in a criss cross pattern. Next, install the coolant hose. If you use silicon
hose, make sure to use silicon hose specific hose clamps. These clamps
have a smooth surface around the worm gear and beveled edges so they
won't cut the hose like a normal clamp.
Next up is the intake. I am using a VForce 3 reed valve. This valve requires
the removal of the rubber reed stuffers present on the stock Honda intake.
Spray some Blue Permatex gasket adhesive on one of the gaskets included in
the VForce kit and allow it to tack up.
Place the gasket on the intake.
Install the VForce
Use the second included gasket between the VForce reed and the intake
and secure using the six hex flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 6.5 lbft.
Install the spark plug and perform a leak down test. This is a critical test
that will determine if the engine is air tight for all intents and purposes.
I use a Motion Pro tester and pump the engine to 6 psi before starting
the stop watch. This engine didn't lose any pressure over the 5 minutes
I measured - good enough for me. A pressure loss of 1psi/min is the
maximum you should allow. Any more than that and you will have
problems.
Next install the carburetor, in this case a 39.5mm Keihin PWK, and you are
done.
This engine should produce about 70 hp with a smooth useable
powerband.
dogger
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
I dont want to criticise cause I know its a bit of work and time, and you have a done a good job, with nice pictures.
stock compression, dome, stock port timing basically, 70 HP at the crank maybe...
Beautiful pictures, and super super clean work.
stock compression, dome, stock port timing basically, 70 HP at the crank maybe...
Beautiful pictures, and super super clean work.
Last edited by dubious01 on January 15th, 2011, 4:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
how much did all the ti cost you, and if you still have all the old steel bolts could you put them in a bucket and weigh them?
ive heard you save more doing the shock linkage and axle bolts ti, and the rest arent worth it
ive heard you save more doing the shock linkage and axle bolts ti, and the rest arent worth it
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish
- redrocket190
- Posts: 1229
- Joined: September 17th, 2007, 9:07 pm
- Location: San Clemente, CA
The dished head bolts do look like Ti, but did you use Ti for non-stressed use? Your vintage restorations lead me to suspect pockets bottomless but this might kill me with envy. Also how did you grind off the stuffers (?) from the stock reed mount to get the V-Force to fit? I'm installing one now and worried about damaging the o-ring type gasket. Awesome build but not a surprise after seeing your previous work over at the Elsinore site...
Michael Stiles
2007 Honda CR500R-AF
2007 Honda CR500R-AF
Anyone running a V3 should thro it in the trash......AlisoBob wrote:Anyone running the V3 should conact Adam for a spacer to pull the block out of the mouth of the jug to position it better.
NAHA PRO HILLCLIMBER #216
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The MP stamp on it stands for Motion Pro
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LIVIN THE DREAM!!!
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NOTHING BUT GREEN LABEL BLENDZALL!!!
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You can cut it off "freestyle" with a die grinder, or do it the way V-Force suggests...redrocket190 wrote:Also how did you grind off the stuffers (?) from the stock reed mount to get the V-Force to fit?
You assemble the OEM stuff with a washer inserted to make space for the hacksaw blade.
Use smooth, long, even strokes with a sharp fine tooth blade....or the final finsh looks like Brit did it.
It's got the good needle, the one that was the consensus on this site.make sure it didnt come with a CEJ
Admittedly, that number is an estimate. The head was shaved and thestock compression, dome, stock port timing basically, 70 HP at the crank maybe...
squish band altered - compression is now race gas only (VP C12).
True statement when talking about weight savings. I use ti on somethingive heard you save more doing the shock linkage and axle bolts ti
like an engine because it doesn't corrode, plus I have a big stash of it left
over from my sponsored days.
Thanks for the kudos Michael. The routine that works best for me is tohow did you grind off the stuffers (?) from the stock reed mount to get the V-Force to fit?
use a dremel. I start out with a abrasive cut off wheel to knock off
about 3/4 depth, then switch to a metal porting bit and a depth adj-
ustment attachment (like you find on a router), that allows me to
make a pass over the surface and only take off what is sticking up.
I also use a little lard with the porting bit. It keeps the rubber from
"nubbing" up. You can see some of the leftover lard in the picture.
Does a pretty good job of yielding a smooth surface for a good seal.
I would be interested in that. That reed is awful close to the piston.Anyone running the V3 should conact Adam for a spacer to pull the block out of the mouth of the jug to position it better.
Thanks for all the feedback and comments in regards to these posts,
It really is appreciated.
dogger
- redrocket190
- Posts: 1229
- Joined: September 17th, 2007, 9:07 pm
- Location: San Clemente, CA
Thanks!AlisoBob wrote:You can cut it off "freestyle" with a die grinder, or do it the way V-Force suggests...redrocket190 wrote:Also how did you grind off the stuffers (?) from the stock reed mount to get the V-Force to fit?
You assemble the OEM stuff with a washer inserted to make space for the hacksaw blade.
Use smooth, long, even strokes with a sharp fine tooth blade....or the final finsh looks like Brit did it.
Michael Stiles
2007 Honda CR500R-AF
2007 Honda CR500R-AF
Its refreshing to have one take a few constructive comments without getting all butt hurt.dogger315 wrote:Thanks for all the feedback and comments in regards to these posts,
It really is appreciated.
dogger
You obviously know how to assemble a CR500 motor properly, but now you have some input to make your next one ever better.
Thats what THIS SITE is all about.
Thanks for posting your work.
I like the idea of using a spacer for this application. I could probably
use an old intake for the dimensions and cut it from some .250 or .375
6061 stock. I'll have to change the bolt length to compensate, but it
sounds like an easy addition, and one that makes good sense - thanks
for the tip.
its way into my next project and help me become a better, more
efficient builder. IMO, the give and take is really what it's all about.
dogger
use an old intake for the dimensions and cut it from some .250 or .375
6061 stock. I'll have to change the bolt length to compensate, but it
sounds like an easy addition, and one that makes good sense - thanks
for the tip.
Exactly right. I have gained some good info that will definitely findnow you have some input to make your next one ever better.
its way into my next project and help me become a better, more
efficient builder. IMO, the give and take is really what it's all about.
dogger