BannedCR500Riders.com

IMHO the welded mounts are the way to go as long as the welding is done by someone who is skilled on aluminum and has a good machine. Those broken frames were most likely the result of stresses from a poor fitup and/or cold welds. Of course I'm a welder so I am biased.
Craigus

4130 plate arrived yesterday , I'll being working on it this weekend. Should have more pics sunday or late Sat.

Aint giving up yet .

The history on the frame is good , some people just shouldnt touch them. But it does save them from being ridden.

I know this may sound insulting, But: Cardboard Is Your Friend!
Seriously, cardboard from a Cornflakes (well, name your poison, about once a year, I go on a "Fruit Loop Sugar Frenzy" ) pack, is great for doing mock ups. You can cut it to fit in the available space and, make it Big, initially, as you can then see it in and out of position, and think clearly about the final, perfect shape. And, you can get very accurate hole location indicators, from just putting the dummy plates in, and then using something like a slightly convex ratchet end to press against the cardboard and mount / hole faces.

Infinitely easier than f***ing about with 'precious' 4130, and you don't waste material. I'm a big one for using my materials to their utmost, and having bugger-all unusable scrap. I assume you got a 300 x 300 square or two?

I know this may sound insulting, But: Cardboard Is Your Friend!

Appreciate it , already planned to use a thin cardboard that comes in engine gasket sets. I a got an 18"x 12" piece that I'm planning to incorporate into a skid plate/ front mount. The "bend" is done between the 2 motor mounts front & lower center. I'm thinking I can add a little strength back in by tying the front mount & the lower middle together. It should work out to where I can tune the firmness of support as well. My initial plan was more of a box but it struck me you could easily make something much stronger than the rest of the frame.

slightly convex ratchet end to press against the cardboard and mount / hole faces.

I have a drawer full of steelies, if you dismember old bearings they still have a purpose

Theres some ridging on the inside of the frame rail mounts I had to file smooth for idea # 2





The front mount had some weld ridge too

The steel framed bikes use .100 plate for the mounts so I'm gonna assume .100 of 4130 should be good . Where I'm spreading the frame to wedge in-between the stock mount & motor I went with .050 plate but it will be double on the front mount creating more of a box with the front bit of ear I had left.
I'm not pushing the frame to the point it doesnt spring back to stock location, so I will have to load it to where it needs to be before I weld the skid plate



you can see here where I'm intending to anchor into the frame by actually drilling & tapping the thickest part of the mounting plate

It hangs low on the bottom side of the rail to attach a skid plate , I'm thinking you could possibly tune the flex here by the length of the welds where the skid plate attaches

Its all stainless hardware I'm using & I'm taking advantage of the shank as suggested

Oh did I mention welding would have been cheaper & less time consuming

Maybe cardboard will hold if I only ride it when its dry out



I'm only looking at the main holes to start , once I cut it & mount it I'll drill the rest. I know most everybodys vote is weld it , but... input?

81cr450 wrote:Oh did I mention welding would have been cheaper & less time consuming

I may be special but the frame wont be anealed