FYI for MG Clutch Cover Owners
FYI for MG Clutch Cover Owners
Maxima Coolanol is magnesium safe so if you have a fairly new MG cover like me and want to wait to upgrade to AL this is your coolant. I have found that MG safe coolants are not easy to find.
Steelie Build Done
Gen 1 CR500 AF Complete - SOLD
Gen 1 CR500 AF Complete - SOLD
From a SAE report....
A number of magnesium alloys show promise as engine block materials. However, a critical issue for the automotive industry is corrosion of the engine block by the coolant and this could limit the use of magnesium engine blocks. This work assesses the corrosion performance of conventional magnesium alloy AZ91D and a recently developed engine block magnesium alloy AM-SC1 in several commercial coolants. Immersion testing, hydrogen evolution measurement, galvanic current monitoring and the standard ASTM D1384 test were employed to reveal the corrosion performance of the magnesium alloys subjected to the coolants. The results show that the tested commercial coolants are corrosive to the magnesium alloys in terms of general and galvanic corrosion. The two magnesium alloys exhibited slightly different corrosion resistance to the coolants with AZ91D being more corrosion resistant than AM-SC1. The corrosivity varied from coolant to coolant. Generally speaking, an organic-acid based long life coolant was less corrosive to the magnesium alloys than a traditional coolant. Among the studied commercial coolants, Toyota long life coolant appeared to be the most promising one.
Dexcool and Zerex are both organic acid coolants, and available everywhere.... or just go to the Toyota dealer.
I run the Zerex in everything I own..... bikes included.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... ifreeze/42
As a side note...
http://www.maxima.co.jp/images/msds/misc/Coolanol.pdf
Coolanol is just regular ol' Ethylene Glycol coolant.... NOT a organic acid product.
A number of magnesium alloys show promise as engine block materials. However, a critical issue for the automotive industry is corrosion of the engine block by the coolant and this could limit the use of magnesium engine blocks. This work assesses the corrosion performance of conventional magnesium alloy AZ91D and a recently developed engine block magnesium alloy AM-SC1 in several commercial coolants. Immersion testing, hydrogen evolution measurement, galvanic current monitoring and the standard ASTM D1384 test were employed to reveal the corrosion performance of the magnesium alloys subjected to the coolants. The results show that the tested commercial coolants are corrosive to the magnesium alloys in terms of general and galvanic corrosion. The two magnesium alloys exhibited slightly different corrosion resistance to the coolants with AZ91D being more corrosion resistant than AM-SC1. The corrosivity varied from coolant to coolant. Generally speaking, an organic-acid based long life coolant was less corrosive to the magnesium alloys than a traditional coolant. Among the studied commercial coolants, Toyota long life coolant appeared to be the most promising one.
Dexcool and Zerex are both organic acid coolants, and available everywhere.... or just go to the Toyota dealer.
I run the Zerex in everything I own..... bikes included.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... ifreeze/42
As a side note...
http://www.maxima.co.jp/images/msds/misc/Coolanol.pdf
Coolanol is just regular ol' Ethylene Glycol coolant.... NOT a organic acid product.
- iggys-amsoil
- Posts: 3602
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 6:09 pm
- Location: Just North of March Airfield CA
Trinity Racing mild porting FMF
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
Toyota has two different coolants, long life and "super" long life. The super long life is premixed, and I would say is a cause of a lot of water pump leakage on cars. It is supposedly normal for it to weep past the seal, but the dried crystalized pink stains in my opinion are not normal, and shouldnt happen.
Antifreeze
This link:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/ ... reeze.aspx
states that this antifreeze provides "optimum rust and corrosion protection for all aluminum and magnesium motorcycle and ATV liquid cooled engines"
This is why I bought this. Either way if it does not I will replace the cover with AL. I went out yesterday and started the bike first kick from ice cold - I am so happy to have the bike working the way it should.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/ ... reeze.aspx
states that this antifreeze provides "optimum rust and corrosion protection for all aluminum and magnesium motorcycle and ATV liquid cooled engines"
This is why I bought this. Either way if it does not I will replace the cover with AL. I went out yesterday and started the bike first kick from ice cold - I am so happy to have the bike working the way it should.
Steelie Build Done
Gen 1 CR500 AF Complete - SOLD
Gen 1 CR500 AF Complete - SOLD
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
i tried everything and its pretty much impossible to do a simple test and say one is better than the other, but i feel regular antifreeze mixed 65%EG 35% water gives the best balance of heat transfer and a high boiling point (328f with a 30psi cap)
straight water runs the coolest and takes the most heat out of the engine, but boils at the lowest temp
evans runs the hottest, while leaving the most heat in the engine, but dosent boil till 400F
straight water runs the coolest and takes the most heat out of the engine, but boils at the lowest temp
evans runs the hottest, while leaving the most heat in the engine, but dosent boil till 400F
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
interesting read
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethyl ... d_146.html
when your going real slow i think that your heat transfer dosent make any difrence cause your weak link is not enough air going thru the rads, thats where you have to compromise and get a coolant that dosent transfer heat as well, but has a higher boiling point..... if you run slow and boil often
if you dont boil your bike regular thentheoreticaly straight water is the best cause it will run the coolest, but the 25% EG is a good idea to make the seals last longer and protect from corrosion without sacrificing much heat capacity
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethyl ... d_146.html
when your going real slow i think that your heat transfer dosent make any difrence cause your weak link is not enough air going thru the rads, thats where you have to compromise and get a coolant that dosent transfer heat as well, but has a higher boiling point..... if you run slow and boil often
if you dont boil your bike regular thentheoreticaly straight water is the best cause it will run the coolest, but the 25% EG is a good idea to make the seals last longer and protect from corrosion without sacrificing much heat capacity
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish