Clutch basket

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · November 22nd, 2011, 2:08 pm

This is my setup...

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · November 22nd, 2011, 2:10 pm

before I removed the outer ring

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · November 22nd, 2011, 2:15 pm

checkout the worn out one in the back

jbsleddin · Post by **jbsleddin** » November 22nd, 2011, 2:35 pm

Kuma wrote:Next question:
The Motor is an '01, when pulling out the clutch operating rod the the clutch lifter seperated, opps no ball, couldn't have gone far? can't find it, even pulled the case cover off and ran a magnet around, still nothing. checked out the parts list on bikebandit does'nt show one for that year, problem is, when I looked at the rod and at the lifter I can see little dents like it had one there? WTF.
I guess I'll measure the old stack of clutches vs. the new and see if it did or did not use the ball.
to be continued.....

This might sound stupid to you, but whenever I replace crank bearings or ANY bearings, I usually save them, and have, on more than one occasion, cut the outer race off for a clutch pushrod ball that seemed to have escape my grasp. Laugh your ass off if you must, but I save a lot of shit.

Gmbond · Post by **Gmbond** » November 22nd, 2011, 3:52 pm

Loose Ball bearings from car wheel bearings make great slingshot ammo. Lol

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » November 22nd, 2011, 5:59 pm

I got in A LOT of trouble when I was 10 for doing just that... Apparently shooting ball bearings at the neighbors grandmas car wasn't a nice thing to do

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · November 22nd, 2011, 7:12 pm

I have a whole bag of 1/2" ball bearings, must be 60 some. We changed out some bearings on the combine with a broken cage. Just got the old slingshot a new strap

hoofarted · Post by **hoofarted** » November 23rd, 2011, 6:43 am

dannygraves wrote:I got in A LOT of trouble when I was 10 for doing just that... Apparently shooting ball bearings at the neighbors grandmas car wasn't a nice thing to do

Yeah that and a bow and arrow IIRC.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » November 23rd, 2011, 8:59 am

yeah, when I shot that arrow through your a/c condenser... that wasn't very nice either... I thought your dad was going to beat my ass

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · November 23rd, 2011, 9:10 am

hahahahahahaha

My buddy was hanging out the rear window of my hurse while i was driving and the bastard blew the picture window out of the neighbors house with a potato gun

when my bro was 10 he put a 22 round thru the side of our camper, it went between the fridge and the heater without wrecking anything and he siliconed the hole shut before anyone knew

I could go on forever

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » November 23rd, 2011, 2:01 pm

yup, and I have 2 boys, I'm just waiting for all that to start in a few years.

Kartwheel68 · Post by **Kartwheel68** » December 1st, 2011, 5:02 pm

Roostius_Maximus wrote:i use 2002+ cr 250 / crf 450 clutch parts and the 2002-2003 shifter components except forks and fork shafts.

Could you go into a little more detail like exactly what parts you used? I've read several threads here and other places about the 250 clutch swap, but never found anything definitive. The most I have gotten is everything but the small gear behind the basket and the inner hub are the same but I've never read where someone completed the swap and had a functioning unit. Also, elaborate please on why you use the (I'm guessing 250) '02-'03 shifter components? Is is compatibility with the other 250 parts or do they work better than the 500 shifter parts?

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » December 1st, 2011, 5:38 pm

i sort of looked into the 250 deal because i wanted full billet hub, basket and pressure plate. was way out of my budget so i abandoned the idea before i found a answer if it would work.

Kartwheel68 · Post by **Kartwheel68** » December 1st, 2011, 5:47 pm

I want it for two reasons. One is that awesome Barnett clutch basket with the stainless inserts on the basket flanges. I've used those on other bikes and they are incredibly good, smoother engagement and no notching from the plates. Second, I want to use the Core EXP auto clutch from Rekluse instead of the Z-Start Pro. I dont really care about billet, its the stainless inserts that are key.

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · Post by **Roostius_Maximus** » December 1st, 2011, 6:34 pm

email me and i'll forward some info to you

mr500 · Post by **mr500** » December 3rd, 2011, 2:35 am

While on the subject...I cant get the clutch to fully disengauge if i have even the smallest bit of free play and it will only engauge right at the end.
I'v replaced the fibre's and metals (admittedly with cheapo ones)

and replaced the clutch hub.
Any ideas??
Could the pressure plate cause this by being too far from the plate(worn)? Does anyone know the min thickness of the pressure plate?
cheers

http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore · Post by **Roostius_Maximus** » December 3rd, 2011, 6:39 am

have you adjusted past the lifter arms pivot?
I'd take the ignition cover off and check to see that released the lever is almost horizontal, if its adjusted so it sits 30-45* then you''ll have only half the lift.

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » December 3rd, 2011, 7:37 pm

Kartwheel68 wrote:I want it for two reasons. One is that awesome Barnett clutch basket with the stainless inserts on the basket flanges. I've used those on other bikes and they are incredibly good, smoother engagement and no notching from the plates. Second, I want to use the Core EXP auto clutch from Rekluse instead of the Z-Start Pro. I dont really care about billet, its the stainless inserts that are key.

Swapping to the 250 should get it done, the problem is the EXP core according to the tech guys at rekluse won't handle the torque of the 500. I'd really like to try this myself but I'm in love with the rekluse pro and don't want a heavier pull at the lever like the EXP has.

mr500 · Post by **mr500** » December 4th, 2011, 2:30 am

Roostius..
A worn/rounded pivot does make sense.
It would only move the push rod a little bit.Giving these simptions.
From what i remember it was a little rounded..
The big problem is,I just cant get it out!
THe last time i had the flywheel out I tried to replace the pivot seal and was unable to pull out the push rod.It would only come out an inch and jam.
I even posted a question about this at the time,someone said the push rods get scored but even then I would have thought turning it should get it out.
Now what do i do?

Kartwheel68 · Post by **Kartwheel68** » December 4th, 2011, 2:37 am

seanmx57 wrote:Swapping to the 250 should get it done, the problem is the EXP core according to the tech guys at rekluse won't handle the torque of the 500. I'd really like to try this myself but I'm in love with the rekluse pro and don't want a heavier pull at the lever like the EXP has.

Hmm...I dont understand why they would say that, the 500 should not put all that much more stress on it than a worked 450. Sounds like they just dont want people to try it, or go to the trouble to do the R&D to make one for the 500 themselves. The one thing I am worried about is I am thinking of trying just he EXP and not the whole Core system, I wonder if the loss of clamping surface when you replace two regular discs with the EXP would cause the 500's clutch to not lock up? Aren't the fibers the same on the 500, 250 and 450? That should allow you to just throw the EXP unit in a stock 500 clutch.

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » December 4th, 2011, 4:16 am

yes it would fit in a 500 hub. The freeplay or lack of may be an issue. I haven't talked with them for a while. Since they told be that they have come out with different wedges that change the way it works. They may be the key to hooking up the 500.

I bought the 250 hub for the second generation SS inserts.

Kartwheel68 · Post by **Kartwheel68** » December 4th, 2011, 4:43 am

Ah...I forgot about the freeplay issue. You could lap some aluminum drive plates to thin them to allow you to get the right freeplay I guess. It would be tedious to do it by hand, but you could do it.

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » December 4th, 2011, 4:52 pm

For the rekluse pro they come with their own special steel drive plates that fit their special inner hub design. They also sell a thicker drive plate to deal with adjusting the plate stack thickness. I'm running 2 thick plates to get the .050 freeplay with all new parts. I've never seen a exp core, may be worth asking to see it they have a similar deal.

2strokeforever · Post by **2strokeforever** » December 4th, 2011, 7:21 pm

i really like this clutch hub, seems idiotioc that most steel drive plates are STAMPED where they contact the clutch hub and not a machined (or laser) finished surface
http://www.rekluse.com/manual.shtml

CNC laser cut drive plates perfectly match the center clutch Rekluse Continuous Radius Spline Technology™ causing clutch loads to be evenly distributed over a greater surface area with more precise tolerances

but realisticaly ill probably end up getting barnett basket and pressure plate, with a wiseco hub (lifetime warranty against notching)

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » December 4th, 2011, 10:17 pm

2strokeforever wrote:
but realisticaly ill probably end up getting barnett basket and pressure plate, with a wiseco hub (lifetime warranty against notching)

you talking 250 hardware ? why not just go all wiseco, its lifetime warranty

BannedCR500Riders.com

Clutch basket