55 Solid Riding Tips....

All Boinger, Sub-Tank, Steering Stabilizer Stuff Here.
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AlisoBob
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55 Solid Riding Tips....

Post by AlisoBob »

Got this in a Email today... not sure who to thank as the author.....

Great tips though!!! I marked the ones I have found to be extra handy in Red.....

RIDING GEAR

1. KEEP YOUR HEAD UP.
Probably the most important tip is to look up the trail. The farther you look ahead, the bigger your safety margin and the faster you can go in that section. Be sure to raise your visor so it doesn't block your vision.

2. PULL THE LINER OUT OF THE MOUTHPIECE.
To get maximum airflow to your face, remove the vinyl liner just in front of your mouth on the inside of the helmet. This will reduce the backflow of your humid breath, reduce goggle fogging and help you avoid overheating. Don't remove any of the Styrofoam (or other similar material) designed to absorb crash energy.

3. PREP YOUR GOGGLES.
Always prepare your goggles for the worst possible conditions you might encounter. Remove the lens, hand-wash the goggle and let it dry thoroughly. Treat the inside of the lens with No-Fog High-Performance Breath Detector and the outside with Rain-X. If there is any water on the course, use a static remover like Dust'R Dust Repellent from Moose, especially if it's going to be dusty in other sections.

4. WEAR GLASSES.
If the conditions are really hot and humid, I switch to riding glasses instead of goggles. The difference in the amount of cooling air to my face is unbelievable. For long, hot, tight races, I will carry a spare pair in my fanny pack in case I start to overheat. Realize you may be compromising eye protection, and ride accordingly.

5. ZIP-TIE YOUR CHEST PROTECTOR TO YOUR PANT.
In any race lasting longer than half an hour, it is necessary to carry water to drink. To counter the weight of the drink system attached to the back of your chest protector, zip-tie the bottom front of your chest protector to your pant belt. Cut a small hole in your jersey (or wear the pads outside like they are designed to be... --Ed.) and feed the zip-tie through the hole and around your belt. This will keep the front of your chest protector from digging into your Adam's apple.

6. WEAR SHORT SOCKS.
For hot weather, wear light, short socks instead of calf-length socks. Your feet are a radiator for your body. To stay cool, don't overlap your riding pants with thick, tall socks. Not all boots are comfortable enough for this, but it works if your boots do.

7. CHECK THE WEATHER.
I am a Weather Channel junkie. And although it seems impossible for anyone to forecast accurately more than six hours in advance, that is enough to get a good idea of the possible conditions coming your way. Check it out and dress accordingly.

8. BRING LATEX/VINYL GLOVES.
Have a good supply of latex/vinyl gloves handy in your garage, trailer or truck. Not only are the lubricants and chemicals used in our sport greasy and messy, some can be less than kind to your skin. Wear gloves, especially when cleaning and reoiling air filters.

9. HYDRATE.
Studies of athletes have shown that as little as 2 percent of body weight lost to sweat can cause fatigue and loss of mental acuity. For a 200-pound rider, a 4-pound loss is equal to 64 ounces of water absorbed. If your urine is dark-colored after a ride, you are not drinking enough. And if you wait until you are thirsty, it is way too late, so drink up and drink up early.

**** NOT BEER BRIT!!!! ****


LEVERS AND CONTROLS

10. GLUE AND SAFETY-WIRE GRIPS.
The most important connection between you and your machine is at the grips. Grips that are not glued and safety-wired will come loose, guaranteed. Carefully clean the bar end or throttle tube, apply the glue and quickly slide on the grips in the correct orientation. Then finish the job by safety-wiring the ends to keep water out. Bury the twisted ends in the grip. Take extreme measures to make sure no glue gets inside the throttle tube.

11. CLEAN THE THROTTLE.
Off-road bikes equipped with hand guards will trap dirt and water between the throttle housing and the handlebar. Remove and clean the throttle regularly. Don't use grease or oil on the handlebar to lube the throttle as this will gum up the works. A throttle should always snap open and closed without any grit, grime or hesitation.

12. POSITION YOUR LEVERS.
Locate your clutch and front-brake lever in the middle zone between horizontal for when you're sitting and way down for when you're standing. The position of the levers must be comfortable while both standing and sitting, without tweaking your wrist too much in either case. Over-rotated levers can cause arm fatigue, loss of strength and/or arm-pump.

13. POSITION YOUR SHIFTER.
Like hand controls, the shifter must also be situated for easy use when sitting or standing. In addition, a low lever will be vulnerable to being false-shifted by bushes or may get bent by stumps or rocks. If you have the lever too high, you won't be able to shift while sitting.

14. MONITOR SHIFT-LEVER WEAR.
Replace the shift lever regularly to avoid missed shifts. The underside of the lever tip--this is especially true of aluminum levers--wears smooth, allowing boots to slide around. Fresh knurls help a boot grab the shifter, making for more positive shifts.

15. POSITION YOUR BRAKE PEDAL.
Adjust the static position of the brake pedal to be near horizontal to the footpeg. This reduces the possibility of bending the pedal and gives a good compromise position for both sitting and standing.

16. ADJUST BRAKE-PEDAL FREEPLAY.
Adjust the freeplay on the pedal at least an inch to avoid overheating the rear brakes.

17. WATCH BRAKE-PEDAL WEAR.
Keep the teeth on the brake pedal sharp to maximize the traction on your boot. Most bikes have steel teeth and can be filed sharp with a hand file.

18. CUSTOMIZE THE LENGTH OF YOUR SHIFTER AND/OR BRAKE PEDAL.
If your feet are small (like mine) or really big, consider shortening or lengthening the shift lever and brake pedal to customize the fit and improve action. My size-seven boot had me shortening up the brake pedal 3/4 inch to better place the tip of the pedal under the ball of my right foot. Really big boots may require lengthening the shift lever and brake pedal to improve shifting and braking.

19. SHARPEN THE FOOTPEGS.
Keep the teeth of the pegs sharp so your boots can stay planted to them. Use a flat file to dress up the edges, especially on the front side of the pegs.

20. CLEAN AND LUBE CABLES.
One reason a new bike feels so good is because the cables are clean and the controls work perfectly. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor before cleaning and lubing to avoid filling the slide with junk. Carefully inspect the inner wire for any broken strands, and replace the cable if it is worn or frayed. Clean with a contact cleaner and a cable-luber. Then use a lube designed specifically for cables.

21. ADJUST YOUR HAND GUARDS' POSITION.
Locate your hand guard as close to horizontal as possible. Hand guards that are mounted too low will surely get pushed back and come loose. You may have to play with the mounts and rebend the bar to find the perfect fit, but this will drastically reduce the possibility of their moving or coming loose and becoming a liability.

22. GET HOT GRIPS.
If your bike has a lighting coil, using heated grips for cool or wet weather is the trick to keep hands warm and dry. Install the heat pads under the grips and remember to safety-wire the grips. Carefully route the leads, giving a loop of wire at the throttle. Wire in a switch to turn them on or off.

ENGINE

23. CHECK CARBURETION.
Correct carburetor settings are the very best, and certainly the cheapest, performance enhancement you can do for your engine. Different temperature and humidity conditions will change jetting requirements. Colder temps make the engine lean; high humidity makes the engine rich. Consult your owner's manual and contact professional aftermarket companies for advice and specifications. Even though most bikes today come with fairly close settings, it is always a good idea to have a selection of jets--main, needle and pilot/slow--in both directions, leaner and richer. As a final note, write jetting specs on the float bowl of the carb so you always know what size is inside.

24. MAINTAIN YOUR TWO-STROKE OIL RATIO.
Don't run too much oil in your gas. If you have black spooge drooling off your pipe and muffler, you are running too much pre-mix. I run PJ-1 Goldfire at 50:1 in my KTM 125 SX. This eliminates spooge at the pipe/muffler junction and gives crisp throttle response. Depending on the oil, we recommend ratios between 32:1 and 50:1--meaning 50 parts fuel to one part oil.

25. GAS-CAN IDENTIFICATION.
Permanently label your gas cans/containers for two-stroke premix or for straight gas. This will prevent your buddy who borrows fuel from your truck from seizing his two-stroke on your 93-octane straight gas. I also mark the container for the kind and amount of oil I use to eliminate any confusion. If you run race fuel, indicate that also.

26. REGULAR GEAR-OIL TRANSFUSIONS.
Change your two-stroke gear oil regularly as it gets contaminated from clutch wear, absorbs water over time and degrades from the shearing action of the gear teeth meshing.

27. REGULAR ENGINE-OIL TRANSFUSIONS.
Change the engine oil regularly in your four-stroke to maximize the life of your engine. The oil gets contaminated from clutch wear, degrades from the shearing of the gear teeth and can absorb moisture through the venting system. In addition, most modern four-strokes carry minimal amounts of oil to keep their weight down, further increasing the stress on the oil. Check the level often, as most engines use up oil (slowly we hope) and don't have a large margin. Also, avoid full synthetic oils; they often have properties that are too slick and can cause clutch slippage. A semisynthetic oil works best, so check your owner's manual for the best possible type.

28. DRAIN THE FLOAT BOWL.
If you are going to store your bike for any amount of time, drain the float bowl to prevent future carburetion problems. Evaporating fuel will leave a residue, leaning out the jetting when you bring it out of storage. Old fuel can also varnish and clog small passageways and cause a world of hurt down the line.

29. WASH YOUR BIKE OFTEN.
Plug the end of the muffler and cover the air filter to keep moisture out of the engine. After washing, start up the bike and warm it to operating temperature to eliminate moisture in the engine and pipe system.

30. MANICURE VENT HOSES.
Cut the ends of your carburetor vent hoses at a 45-degree angle to help keep debris from clogging them and starving the carburetor. Also, replace any hoses that may be pinched or burned closed.

SUSPENSION

31. BLEED YOUR FORK.
Air pressure can build up in your fork, making its action harsh. Regularly open the bleeders to equalize the air pressure. I also open up and leave open the bleeders on my fork when the front end is pulled down for transportation in my truck. This prevents pressure from building up in the fork and stops any leaking.

32. CLEAN YOUR WIPERS.
On most forks, you can remove the wipers easily with a screwdriver. Especially after a muddy event, you should clean out the dirt under the wiper and around the top of the seal. This will reduce the dirt getting packed into the main seal and extend its life. Put a dab of light grease on the inside of the wiper before lightly tapping it back in place.

33. SET COMPRESSION.
Use the owner's manual as a guide for compression settings. Generally, from the factory they are set in the middle of the range, but count the total number of clicks or rotations and divide it in half for a starting point. A good rule of thumb, though, is to make the compression settings as stiff as you can stand comfortably. This will require different settings for different riders and different terrain conditions. Turn the adjuster in one click at a time until it gets uncomfortable. From my experience, most riders set the compression too soft. Keep a log of your favorite settings depending on certain conditions and make sure this diary goes wherever your bike goes.

34. KNOW YOUR MUD SETTINGS.
Tighten up the compression-adjuster settings a couple of clicks for a muddy race to compensate for the additional weight the bike will pick up from wearing the mud.

35. ADJUST SPRING PRELOAD.
Set the preload per the manufacturer's specs generally. But for a muddy race, increase preload to compensate for the weight of the mud the bike will pick up. Weight gain can be 10 to 20 percent of the bike's poundage, so adjust the preload accordingly.

36. ADJUST REBOUND.
Set the rebound adjuster as loose as possible to give the maximum suspension travel. Remember: Rebound works against the tension of the spring, so you want it as light as possible to let the suspension return to full travel between bumps yet control the rear of the bike. That also means the rebound is generally not changed much once a base setting is discovered. Find a comfortable setting that works with your riding style and be sure to test the setting before going out for a race or hard-core ride.

CHASSIS

37. ROUTE THE GAS-TANK VENT.
Never direct the gas-tank vent hose down the steering stem. Fuel that leaks out can wash the grease off your lower steering-stem bearings, letting rust attack them and reducing their life.

38. STRAIGHTEN RADIATORS.
Twisted radiators can be straightened decently by clamping the reservoir ends in a vise, lightly sandwiched between two two-by-four boards. Hold one end with your hands, the other between the wood, and slowly and carefully untwist the unit. Don't jerk and don't try for perfection, just usable function. If a radiator is severely tweaked, there is a chance you could crack the joints when trying to straighten them.

39. INSTALL DECALS WARM.
Use sunlight or a hair dryer to warm up decals and make them more flexible. A light soap spray--like Windex or, better yet, Sticker On--helps you to precisely place the decal. Then carefully squeegee out any moisture from the center outward.

40. MAINTAIN THE MASTER LINK.
Check the clip on your master link often. On O-ring chains, the longer pins of the master link tend to wear sooner than the chain, thus accelerating the wear of the clip. This is usually worse if a larger-than-standard rear sprocket is used as that forces the chain into the chain guide more.

41. LUBE YOUR CHAIN.
Lubricate your chain often--and at the very least, after washing the bike. On O-ring chains, the lube mostly keeps the O-rings from cracking and breaking away, exposing the inner link to water and dirt. O-ring doesn't mean "no maintenance."

42. ADJUST YOUR CHAIN.
Off-road situations usually have some mud involved, so never run your chain too tight. This is the biggest factor in breaking chains, fast wear on sprockets, loose rear sprockets and even broken countershaft bearings. Mud will get between the chain and sprocket and tighten up the adjustment, so it must be on the loose side before a ride.

43. MAINTAIN THE CHAIN-ADJUSTER BOLTS.
Most new bikes have aluminum swingarms and steel adjuster bolts. Periodically remove the adjuster bolts and treat with Anti-Seize compound to prevent the bolts from locking up in the swingarm.

44. GREASE THE AXLES.
Remember that rust never sleeps. Between the washing and leaving the tires on for a year, axles can become almost impossible to remove. Regularly remove the axles, even if you aren't changing a tire, and lubricate them with a smearing of grease.

45. BLEED BRAKES.
Hydraulic brakes are so good we can forget they need service. Brake fluid loves water and will absorb it given any chance. In addition, the heat that the rear brake fluid encounters is severe. Periodically bleed the brakes until fresh, clear fluid appears at the calipers. Also, if you are serious, use only brake fluid from an unopened can to avoid any possibility of contamination. This applies to all hydraulic controls, including the front brake and clutch.

46. FLUSH THE COOLANT.
Change your coolant at least every two years to eliminate corrosion in the engine and to keep the cooling system working at maximum efficiency.

47. KEEP THE BEAD DOWN WHEN CHANGING TIRES.
Changing tires easily is all about being smarter than the tire. The diameter of the bead of the tire is smaller than the outside diameter of the rim--duh! So to get the tire on or off the rim, the bead must be pushed down inside of the drop center of the rim and kept there while the opposite side of the tire is leveraged over the rim edge.

48. USE FOUR TIRE IRONS.
Once you have deflated the tube and "broken down the bead" (pushed it into the drop center of the rim), insert four tire irons between the bead and the rim, spaced about 5 inches apart. Start in the middle, and progressively work out to the sides using the four irons, checking that the bead opposite the irons is down. Using multiple irons eliminates fighting to get them in under the bead and virtually erases the possibility of the bead falling back under the rim after you pull it out.

49. USE WD-40 WHILE CHANGING TIRES.
I use WD-40 to help remove old tires and to ease the installation of new meat. It is mostly a carrier and evaporates quickly. Spray the bead area, but be very careful not to get any spray on a brake rotor.

50. INSTALL THE TUBE FIRST.
I have found that installing a partially inflated tube in a new tire is the easiest way to mount tires. Lightly coat the inside of the tire with baby powder first, so the tube will find its place nicely inside the tire.

51. VALVE-STEM NUT AS LOCATOR.
Use the small nut on the valve stem to stop the stem from receding into the tire while you're trying to push the bead inside the rim. I always install the stem in the hole of the rim first, then thread the nut on about 1/4 inch to hold the stem up. Never thread the nut all the way down; this will either result in a pinched tube while tire-changing or the stem being torn out while riding. Once inflated, thread the nut up against the cap, not the rim.

52. SUN A TIRE.
Set a new tire out in the sun before changing to soften it up and make changing it easier.

53. PACK YOUR FANNY PACK.
Periodically check your fanny pack for completeness. Don't carry the kitchen sink; just carry what you need to perform most jobs in the field. I have two basic packs: one for racing, which is minimal, and one for trail riding. The difference is the riding pack holds the stuff necessary to fix a flat and adds a water container on the hip. Check it over before a ride; it's not fun to realize you've already used the CO2 cartridges or the spare master link doesn't fit your new chain when you're on the trail.

BONUS SECRETS:

54. RUCK WASHING TIP.
Rather than spending a couple of days waxing my boxvan, Thor truck driver Jimmy told me to mix some Mop & Glo with water and spray it on the truck after a washing. The truck will shine like new and it takes no work. Figure that he has a 53-foot-long truck to shine every weekend, and that's a good tip. It works on trailers, too.

55. SERVICE AFTER A RIDE, NOT BEFORE.

This is one of those philosophical tips learned over many years. Don't wash your bike unless you have the time to fully service it and fix any problems. Trust me, you will be stoked and in a hurry to go riding when the opportunity presents itself, and the last thing you want to do is to have to clean an air filter, fix a flat or whatever when you could be roosting. Do that work afterward so you are ready to go at the next drop of the proverbial flag.
Last edited by AlisoBob on October 26th, 2007, 10:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
britincali
Posts: 8207
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Post by britincali »

90% of the stuff I agree with, nice post.
Coolness list by 90cr500guy

Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
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AlisoBob
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Posts: 15404
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Post by AlisoBob »

What 10% dont you?
User avatar
britincali
Posts: 8207
Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
Location: Barstow, CA

Post by britincali »

2. PULL THE LINER OUT OF THE MOUTHPIECE.
To get maximum airflow to your face, remove the vinyl liner just in front of your mouth on the inside of the helmet. This will reduce the backflow of your humid breath, reduce goggle fogging and help you avoid overheating. Don't remove any of the Styrofoam (or other similar material) designed to absorb crash energy.
Mine fell out of my old helmet and it became a liability, sharp strands of coated fiberglass are not fun on your chin.



8. BRING LATEX/VINYL GLOVES.
Have a good supply of latex/vinyl gloves handy in your garage, trailer or truck. Not only are the lubricants and chemicals used in our sport greasy and messy, some can be less than kind to your skin. Wear gloves, especially when cleaning and reoiling air filters.
Dont be a pussy.

10. GLUE AND SAFETY-WIRE GRIPS.
The most important connection between you and your machine is at the grips. Grips that are not glued and safety-wired will come loose, guaranteed. Carefully clean the bar end or throttle tube, apply the glue and quickly slide on the grips in the correct orientation. Then finish the job by safety-wiring the ends to keep water out. Bury the twisted ends in the grip. Take extreme measures to make sure no glue gets inside the throttle tube.
Just glue works fine.

22. GET HOT GRIPS.
If your bike has a lighting coil, using heated grips for cool or wet weather is the trick to keep hands warm and dry. Install the heat pads under the grips and remember to safety-wire the grips. Carefully route the leads, giving a loop of wire at the throttle. Wire in a switch to turn them on or off.
On an MX bike????
24. MAINTAIN YOUR TWO-STROKE OIL RATIO.
Don't run too much oil in your gas. If you have black spooge drooling off your pipe and muffler, you are running too much pre-mix. I run PJ-1 Goldfire at 50:1 in my KTM 125 SX. This eliminates spooge at the pipe/muffler junction and gives crisp throttle response. Depending on the oil, we recommend ratios between 32:1 and 50:1--meaning 50 parts fuel to one part oil
Jetting is off as a consiquence of oil ratio.
Plug the end of the muffler and cover the air filter to keep moisture out of the engine. After washing, start up the bike and warm it to operating temperature to eliminate moisture in the engine and pipe system.
How often do you blast the inside of the silencer?


Is that 10%? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Coolness list by 90cr500guy

Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
User avatar
AlisoBob
"Hoon-father"
Posts: 15404
Joined: May 31st, 2007, 6:39 pm
Location: Aliso Viejo Ca

Post by AlisoBob »

britincali wrote:
2. PULL THE LINER OUT OF THE MOUTHPIECE.
To get maximum airflow to your face, remove the vinyl liner just in front of your mouth on the inside of the helmet. This will reduce the backflow of your humid breath, reduce goggle fogging and help you avoid overheating. Don't remove any of the Styrofoam (or other similar material) designed to absorb crash energy.
Mine fell out of my old helmet and it became a liability, sharp strands of coated fiberglass are not fun on your chin.



For #2, Buy a better helmet.....


the others...... yea....... probably so...
User avatar
britincali
Posts: 8207
Joined: May 31st, 2007, 7:10 pm
Location: Barstow, CA

Post by britincali »

AlisoBob wrote:
Mine fell out of my old helmet and it became a liability, sharp strands of coated fiberglass are not fun on your chin.


For #2, Buy a better helmet.....


the others...... yea....... probably so...
I did already, I spent a whole $90 at the Adelanto GP :wink:
Coolness list by 90cr500guy

Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
User avatar
AlisoBob
"Hoon-father"
Posts: 15404
Joined: May 31st, 2007, 6:39 pm
Location: Aliso Viejo Ca

Post by AlisoBob »

More random tips to ponder while sitting on the shitter...

Think smart by riding protected. Protect yourself by wearing the proper safety gear whenever riding.
Snug fitting Dot or Snell approved helmet.
Goggles
Gloves
Motocross boots
Long pants
Long sleeves
Knee and shin guards
Chest protector
Elbow pads
Hip pads

When removing and cleaning plastic for new graphics, try spraying on some contact cleaner. It gets rid of the old gummy glue and helps prepare the plastic for new graphics.

Got carbon stains on your fender from your exhaust? Use "Goo Gone" and "Goof off" to quickly remove the carbon stains. Then grab your Silkolene Pro-prep and give your plastic a shine that makes even Britney Spears look pale in comparison.

Secure a Ziptie around the bottom of each fork slider right next to the seal. When you finish a practice, look to see where the Ziptie is located on the fork slider. If the tie did not get pushed to the opposite end of the slider, then your fork suspension is probably set too hard for your riding style.

If your dirtbike is bottoming out on the landing of many jumps, but still seems good everywhere else on the track, you should try increasing the fork oil level by 2mm per fork until your jumps feel better. It would also be a good time to replace the old fork oil and go with all fresh oil.

Any MX moto is won or lost in the corners. Instead of just concentrating on exiting a corner faster, make sure you are entering the corner fast too. Every lap, try to leave the throttle on a little longer into each corner. Brake hard with the front brake only the last few feet into the corner.

Make sure to pay attention to your spokes when the bike is brand new. The first few rides will sometimes affect new spoke tension to be looser. Keeping the spokes tighten correctly will help keep your wheels round and true. It also helps to keep a spoke wrench in your tool box for making this job easier.

Putting grips on your handlebars can be challanging sometimes. If you are too cheap to buy grip glue, then try a can of hairspray. Spraying the bar end will act as a lubricate for sliding on the hand grips. Once the hair spray dries, it acts as a glue to hold the grip in place.

Before installing your new seat cover, try spraying the underside with a water proofing spray. Most shoe stores sell a water proofing spray that works just fine. This will help keep water from getting to the seat foam and will extend the life of the seat.

Before attaching your clutch or brake perch onto the handlebars, wrap some Teflon plumbers tape around the bar where the perch will be attached. Then attach the perch just tight enough to be secure, but so that it will rotate if your dirt bike hits the ground. This can save you may broken clutch and brake levers over the years.

Next time you have your tire off, get rid of the stock rubber rim strip around your hub. Replace it with a couple wraps of duct tape. This will do more for you in preventing flat tires from loosening spoke nipples.

Changing a tire can be a simple process. The key is twofold. Apply a lubrating agent such as soapy water around the bead. Then break the bead and keep the tire edge in the center of the rim with your knee while slowly removing the tire from the rim on the opposite side of the rim.


When you are installing new coolant hoses, be sure to spray inside the ends lightly with a Silicone spray. This will help make installation much easier.

Over the course of the motocross season, air pressure can begin to build up in your forks. This will make your forks run stiffer. Be sure to bleed the air out of your forks periodically to let the trapped air out. Better yet, regularly replace your fork oil will go a long way in keeping your front forks health.

In a hurry to change those brake pads? Just pull the brake pins and the pads can be worked out. This saves time otherwise spent removing the wheel.

Throw in a small empty coffee can with a snap lid into your pickup toolbox next time you go riding. Then get into the habit of placing any screws, clips, bolts, and nuts which come off your dirt bike while you are working on it trackside. Having all small parts securely in your possession is better than spending time hunting through the dirt and gravel of the pits looking for a lost screw.

A basic part to always include in your travel part box is a master link for your dirt bike chain. Everyone has probably seen at least once a season that poor guy frantically begging others for a master link to fix his broken chain. Also, make sure the master link clip is positioned on the bike so that the closed end of the clip is pointed in the direction of wheel rotation.

The stock axel blocks on most dirt bikes are not the most accurate indicator for proper chain aligment. Using a chain alignment tool will help keep your sprockets and chain running longer.

Be sure to seal off any small openings and seams around you airbox junctions with silicone to prevent mud and water from entering the airbox.

When your dirtbike plastic gets a crease in it, sometimes referred to as fatigue lines, use a heat gun to fix it. Point the heat gun over the fatigue lines and they should disappear as the plastic becomes heated.

Install your frame guards by cutting and placing a piece of heavy clear plastic underneath the guard. This helps to prevent scraping between the guard and the frame.


If you ever strip the drain plug of your dirtbike, the best way to fix that problem is with an oversize heli-coil. The cheap way to fix it is with a drain plug repair kit for auto engines.

Ron Hinson of Hinson Racing Clutches says that the latest trend in pro racing is to use his basket and pressure plate along with an aluminum driven plate with a coating called Akidize. This enables the use of lightweight aluminum plates with a surface that has more friction and is relatively wear resistant. No big secret formula for the oil, just 5 weight motor oil. The secret is to change the oil every moto.

The main reasons why you need good handling suspension on a dirt bike is three-fold. First, to keep the wheels in contact with the ground to provide traction and drive for the rear wheel and steering for the front wheel. Secondly, to minimize the impacts and vibration on the motorcycle. And thridly, to minimize the stress loads on the rider and prevent fatigue and injuries.

Forks draw in air as they rebound when the fork tube is misaligned with the slider and the air seeps past the wipers, seals, and bushings. The proper way to bleed the forks is to fully extend the forks by placing the dirtbike on a bike stand and bleed the air from the valves located on the fork caps.

If an engine is set-up properly with the right compression ratio and jetting, it can make better power with oxygenated pump fuel. That is why the AMA has ruled pump fuel illegal for pro racing events.

If the rebound damping is too soft or the compression damping is too stiff, that will cause your arms to pump up because it will make you squeeze the bars on and off while impacts are transferred through the forks. The main cause of weak rebound damping is a worn internal bushing located on the damping rod head.

A freshly packed silencer will make your bike quieter plus it will run stronger because there will be less turbulence and back pressure in the exhaust system.

Ever discover your swingarm bolt is stuck solid? Get a hacksaw, wedge it between the swinging arm seal caps and the frame and start sawing! Then you can pull out the swinging arm and use a steel punch to hammer out the remnants of the swinging arm pivot bolt. Make sure you change and grease the bearings so you never have to do this again.

Pick up a spray can of Pam next time you are at the grocery store. Then next race day where there is a muddy track, spray your dirt bike where mud usually collect. The Pam will help keep your bike from packing up with mud.


Flat, hard, dry, slippery turns can cause many riders to go too slow. Sliding around and worrying about spinning out, they back off the throttle to gain traction. Don't let that slow you down, just make sure you weight the outside peg. As you enter the hard flat turn, put your weight pressure on the outside footpeg. As the bike is leaned into the turn, your body provides counter pressure to the outside of the bike to load the suspension and flex the sidewalls. So next hard flat corner, try weighting your outside footpeg by place your knee against the tank and press down hard.


Looking for sponsorships? Cycra Racer is looking for good motocross racers to help out.

Depending on your riding habits and the conditions in which you ride, it may be necessary to lube your cables after every or every-other ride. Lubing the cable helps extend the life of the cable by serving as both a cleaner by pushing out dust and debris and as a lubricator.

The part where the clutch cable connects to the clutch lever is called a barrel. This barrel must be able to pivot smoothly in the pivot point of the lever every time the lever is pulled. Sometimes dirt and debris can collect in this pivot area causing the cable to bend rather than pivot. It will cause a clutch cable to fray about 1/2" from where it connects to the clutch lever if left unattended. Thoroughly clean this pivot point and lube the barrel before reinstalling the cable. Do this every time you lube your cables.

Sometimes the throttle cable will fray about 1/2" from where it connects to the throttle tube. This can happen when the throttle is forcibly and routinely twisted farther than it is designed to be pulled. Another thing that can contribute to this is a lack of proper lube grease and lack of proper cleaning inside the throttle housing.

If you are racing with oxygenated pump gasoline, the oxygenated gasoline results in a leaner air/fuel mixture compared to a conventional gasoline. This causes some engines not properly jetted to run rough. Also, engines may run hotter on lean mixtures, which, in the extreme case, can result in engine damage. Be aware of this - you may have to go to a larger jetting.

There are numerous conditions that adversely affect jetting such as altitude, temperature, air density, fuel type and oil ratio. The effects of higher altitude will see a engine run rich due to less oxygen in the air. Temperature will richen the circuit the colder the air gets. Hot air, on the other hand, will lean the circuit.

Changing your stock reeds to Boyesen reeds increases performance, but you might also want to change the main jet in your carb. The ability of the dual-stage reed to close quickly and more efficiently causes a stronger carburetor signal, trapping more fuel and air in the engine. This causes the carburetor to run rich in a full throttle position. Air speed, which we refer to as velocity, is increased. The increase in velocity pulls an excess of fuel through the main jet, causing a rich condition.

With a dirt bike engine turning at about 8,000 r.p.m., the reeds will open and close 133 times per second. Like any other moving part in your engine, the ability of reeds to respond quickly to changes in throttle position will decrease over time. Life expectancy of your reeds vary depending upon engine design and riding characteristics. Someone who is always on the throttle, allowing the motor to over-rev constantly can expect less life from their reeds. If you are racing on a regular basis then it is a good idea to change your reeds 2-3 times a season for best performance. Reeds should be checked during regular top end service intervals for fatigue and chipping.

If you cut your seat down to better accommodate your riding height, be sure to modify the handlebar height and footpeg locations to accommodate the changes to maintain the proper distance and ratio between them.

Riding motocross with your body off the seat allows for better balance. Everyone has a different riding style, but you want to make sure you have good balance and control while jumping, in the whoops, rhythm sections and other technical parts of a track. Sitting will gain you traction, but really does limit your mobility and speed. If you are a seat sitter, practice riding the track standing up the entire lap.

The main reason sprockets wear out fast is because of poor chain maintenance. The second reason is because the front and rear sprocket are not aligned correctly.

Before installing a new chain, check that your sprockets are aligned. You can easily do this by placing a straight edge against the face of the rear sprocket. The straight edge should be touching the entire face of the rear sprocket and the entire face of the front sprocket. Using a straigh edge like this, you can visually insure that the sprockets are running in the same plane. If they are out of align, then use the axel adjuster bolts on the swing arm and adjust so the rear sprocket is in perfect alignment with the front sprocket.

Changing the gearing ratio of your dirtbike will allow you to transfer power to where you need it. If you want to add a little more torque on the low end, replace the rear sprocket with a larger sprocket. Transfering your power to gain more speed on top, replace the rear sprocket with a smaller sprocket. You can also alter gearing ratio by changing the front sprocket, but changing the front sprocket will have a dramatic affect on gearing ratio. Initially, start by changing the rear sprocket if possible.

Sometimes the simple things are overlooked. To avoid loss of control or injury, make sure axle nuts are tight and secured. Grasp each tire at the front and rear and try to rock it on its axle to detect worn-out bearings or loose nuts. There should be no free play or slip as you rock the wheel. Inspect wheels for broken or loose spokes and for cracks on the hub or rim.

Replace immediately any broken spokes and tighten any loose ones. Broken spokes transfer additional tension to adjoining spokes, creating the potential for further spoke failures. After tightening or replacing spokes, be sure that the wheel rims run true. Inspect the rim, rim band and tube, and replace any of these components if they are damaged before refitting the tire. Both broken and loose spokes may cause wheel wobble, thus accelerating tire wear, and could cause instability.

Tighten wheel rim locks with a higher tire pressure than the recommended air pressure. Once tightened, and before you ride, readjust your tire pressure to the proper level.

Front suspension performance relies greatly on fork oil quality: is it old and dirty? Also viscosity: is it too heavy or too light for outside ambient temperatures? And too, the amount of oil in each leg: is your fork bottoming or feel too firm?

Do you have a problem with your goggles fogging up? Try this. Take an ordinary bar of hand soap and soak it for a few minutes in water to soften it up. Then scrape some of the softened soap off and make a thin paste of it with more water. Apply soapy paste to the inner surface of the goggles and let it dry for a few minutes. When dry, buff the lens with toilet paper repeatedly until the lens are clear. This works great for several hours of decent anti-fogging protection.

Motocrossing carries responsibility as well as freedoms. Always get permission before riding MX bikes on private lands. Make sure your cycle has a good muffler that keeps your bike quiet. Try not to damage any grassy, swampy areas including sand dunes. Do not ride close to other houses unless you have permission. Make sure you pickup all your trash & do not spill oil or fuel onto the ground.

Try mounting you motorcycle lever perchs on the handlebars slightly loose so that they pivot if you crash rather than snap.

You should be able to pull your motorcycle clutch & brake levers in about 5-10mm before they start working. This avoids riding the clutch & helps prevent fore-arm pump.

Consider gluing your motorcycle grips to the handlebars to avoid them slipping during a race. Some MX riders use grips with no pattern on the top side to avoid blisters. Replace grips when worn.

When trail riding, running tire pressures too low means you run the risk of getting a flat tire. If the pressures are too high, your rear wheel will spin & not get traction. You should run between 10-15 psi (pounds per square inch) in both your front & rear tires. On a wet day, drop pressures to 10psi. On a hard/rocky track keep your pressures at about 14psi.

Off-road motorcycle riding is all about bumps, so having your bike suspension set up correctly is vital. If you are racing your MX bike, you should get your suspension serviced by a qualified person at least once a year.

You should consider setting your suspension so that it sags a certain amount when you sit on it. On a full-sized motocross or enduro cycle, the bike should sag about 25mm under it’s own weight and 95mm when you sit on it. Use a measurement between the rear axle bolt & the seat bolt to see if your sag is correct. Consult your motorcycle service manual for the exact sag measurement.

The amount of the top of the forks poking out of the motorcycle top fork mount affects the bike handling. Having a lot of the fork showing means the front of your MX cycle is lowered which makes the bike turn more quickly, but be more unstable at high speeds over rough ground. Having the top of the fork level with the top fork holder raises the front of the motorcycle, making it more stable, but turning slower.

The angle of your foot-peg is vital to racing well. Foot pegs sag down on the outside after a lot of use. The footpegs need to sit up higher on the outside when viewed from the front or behind. To do this, take your motorcycle foot-peg off and put a spot of weld on the bottom inside of the peg. Having your footpegs tilted up helps glue your knees to the seat and gas tank, which fast riders do.

Correct body position is the foundation of riding MX well. Just like if you started to build a motorcycle, you would start with the frame, so to when learning to ride MX better, you start with your frame - your body. Consider your back as a part of the frame of the bike and your arms and legs as suspension.

Practice the standing attack position when motorcycling rough ground, going up or down hills, sweeping corners, and jumping. You want to stand crouched on the off-road motorcycle with knees slightly bent, gripping the seat with your knees, elbows up so arms are in line with forks, head above the handle bar with eyes looking ahead 40 to 50 feet in front of you.

Practice the seated attack position when cornering and at racing starts. Sit as far forward as possible on your motorcycle, crouch and lean slightly forward with your elbows up so arms are in line with the motorcycle forks. Head should be about 3 hand widths above the handlebars while you grip the seat/tank with legs. Keep two fingers on your hand controls and keep looking ahead.

When racing your moto and traction is not available on a portion of the track, slip your backside back towards the middle of the seat. This adds weight to the back tire. But be sure to keep your head above the bars to keep some traction on the front end.

You can double your suspension while MX racing simply by standing up rather than sitting. Use your legs and arms as a second set of suspension components.

It is really important to move smoothly between standing and sitting while racing so that you keep your body weight balanced on the MX bike. To move from the seated position to the standing position while racing, simply straighten your legs until you are standing on the bike with slightly bent legs. To move from the standing to the seated position, sit and slide forward in the same motion until you are sitting as far forward on the seat as possible. Your head and shoulders should remain in the same position whether you are standing or sitting. Only the position of your legs and behind changes. Your head should be the length of your forearm away from the handlebars at all times. Elbows are always up for strength & stability.

You have an imaginary point in your body around which your weight is evenly distributed. This point, called your center of gravity (COG), is just in front of your stomach. Likewise, your motorcycle has a similar point around the middle of the engine. Controlling a off-road motorcycle has a lot to do with where the two COG’s are in relation to each other. The closer you can put your COG to the MX bike’s COG, the more stable, controlled and balanced you will be. This is why many top riders crouch over their dirtbikes with their head centered over the handlebars.

A common mistake made, especially by week-end off-road motocross riders, is that riders sit too far back on their dirt bike. This means their COG and weight is rear of the motorcycle’s COG. This means the rider overloads the rear suspension, strains their forearms and back muscles (leading to forearm pump) and uneven traction on the tires.

The lower your body’s center of gravity is to the base of support, the more stable your dirtbike will be. A racer crouched low over their MX bike is less likely to be thrown sideways in a corner. By crouching low, the pendulum effect is decreased.

In order to get maximum traction in a sweeping corner, try pressing down on the outside footpeg of your motorcycle.

Corners win races! Anybody can go fast on a straightaway. But if you can save 1/4 of a second every corner, that could equal 2 to 3 places higher up at the end of the moto.

Good cornering practice activities on your motorcycle include some slow first gear circles, figure eights, barrel racing, stand up cornering, weaving in and out of cones, and doing donuts in the dirt.

You need to be very accurate when riding a rutted corner. It is important that you line the rut up so you enter in a flowing way. Lean with the bike, rather than leaning the bike below you. Get your inside leg up high so it does not drag on the ground and can provide weight for the front wheel.

Cornering Lines - in general, try to take wide entries into corners, especially flat and bermed turns. A wide entry means you make the corner as flowing as possible and can usually get on the gas earlier.

Most jumps are approached in a rider standing position. Choose a smooth spot on the jump to take off from. Make sure the motorcycle is in the meaty part of the power band as you hit the jump face. Be sure to grip the bike firmly with your legs and use the throttle as you take off. You do not need to push or pull on the bike as you take off, just let the suspension compress & rebound naturally.

Riding a dirt bike takes a lot of physical effort. You need to develop endurance in your legs, arms and back (basically all muscles) as well as get aerobically fit for easy breathing. Consider some form of fitness training between motocross outings.

A nutritional problem some riders face is a lack of fluid leading to dehydration. During intense motocross practice or racing, a rider can lose up to 3 litres of fluid per hour. It only takes a loss of one percent of body weight caused by fluid loss before performance is impaired. The symptoms of dehydration can include head aches, starry vision, cramp, disorientation and exhaustion. You do need to drink before you are thirsty!

When lining up at starting gates for your moto, try to relax your brain. Keep your thoughts positive. Your mind plays a huge role in how well you race in MX. Your mood, your concentration, and thoughts have a big influence both positive and negative.

A lot of MX racing success comes down to mental toughness. This is the ability to control your own mind and remain positive and focused no matter what happens. You need to become a mentally tough unit. Once you can achieve a consistent positive never-give-up, 100% effort attitude, you can perform at your best always.

Before going over a jump or around a deep rut, imagine yourself doing it perfectly. Fill the mind with the right picture and often the body will follow through. Think negatively and you have a good chance of failure.
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Mad Dog
Posts: 604
Joined: June 27th, 2007, 2:16 pm
Location: Yorba Linda, CA

Post by Mad Dog »

AlisoBob wrote:More random tips to ponder while sitting on the shitter...


...
Practice the standing attack position when motorcycling rough ground, going up or down hills, sweeping corners, and jumping. You want to stand crouched on the off-road motorcycle with knees slightly bent, gripping the seat with your knees, elbows up so arms are in line with forks, head above the handle bar with eyes looking ahead 40 to 50 feet in front of you.

Practice the seated attack position when cornering and at racing starts. Sit as far forward as possible on your motorcycle, crouch and lean slightly forward with your elbows up so arms are in line with the motorcycle forks. Head should be about 3 hand widths above the handlebars while you grip the seat/tank with legs. Keep two fingers on your hand controls and keep looking ahead.
...
A common mistake made, especially by week-end off-road motocross riders, is that riders sit too far back on their dirt bike. This means their COG and weight is rear of the motorcycle’s COG. This means the rider overloads the rear suspension, strains their forearms and back muscles (leading to forearm pump) and uneven traction on the tires.

The lower your body’s center of gravity is to the base of support, the more stable your dirtbike will be. A racer crouched low over their MX bike is less likely to be thrown sideways in a corner. By crouching low, the pendulum effect is decreased.

In order to get maximum traction in a sweeping corner, try pressing down on the outside footpeg of your motorcycle.

...
You need to be very accurate when riding a rutted corner. It is important that you line the rut up so you enter in a flowing way. Lean with the bike, rather than leaning the bike below you. Get your inside leg up high so it does not drag on the ground and can provide weight for the front wheel.

Cornering Lines - in general, try to take wide entries into corners, especially flat and bermed turns. A wide entry means you make the corner as flowing as possible and can usually get on the gas earlier.
...
Before going over a jump or around a deep rut, imagine yourself doing it perfectly. Fill the mind with the right picture and often the body will follow through. Think negatively and you have a good chance of failure.



Sounds easy enough. :P
'We are motorcycle people; we walk tall and we laugh at whatever’s funny. We shit on the chests of the Weird….' HST
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lewisclan
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Posts: 4804
Joined: June 1st, 2007, 3:34 pm
Location: Yucca Valley CA

Post by lewisclan »

I am still only 1/2 way through this
Image"the game of life of is not so much in holding a good hand as playing a poor hand well"
ou812
Posts: 794
Joined: June 22nd, 2007, 12:41 pm

Post by ou812 »

Dont be a pussy.
:rotfl:
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lewisclan
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Posts: 4804
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Post by lewisclan »

Ill try harder
Image"the game of life of is not so much in holding a good hand as playing a poor hand well"
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iggys-amsoil
Posts: 3602
Joined: June 1st, 2007, 6:09 pm
Location: Just North of March Airfield CA

Post by iggys-amsoil »

Ok you two, when are you going to meet me for a practice day? So you can put into practice what has just be learned? :lol:

Racetown is a good place to start, then on to El Mirage for goofin.

Oh and thanks for the refresher course. :urock:
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asteroid500
Posts: 1047
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 1:29 am
Location: Australia Melbourne

my 10cents worth (no not a rapper)

Post by asteroid500 »

ok there good ideas but lets throw a twist in it :twisted:

tip 2..."OUCH" you ever chiped a front tooth while being roosted by 15 other mad fuckers trying to beat you to the 1st corner holeshot.
i have and i can tell you i was fucked, i'd rather spend a night on the all male 10inch club love boat then visit the dentist.

tip 4...aussie and english slang for a pussy is FANNY,
i cant tell you the amount of times i've had to read somthing twice as to its proper meaning only to find its not smut.

tip 6...try wearing the latest in cooling under garments.
there wicking system lifts the sweat away from the body that in turn greats evaperation that then creates a refridgeration system that cools the body it works i can vouch for that, there cooler on the bike because the air flow but they also made the race cars more bearable to drive and the consintration levels remain higher longer

tip 9...salt tablets,
they are pound for pound the best way ive found to keep hydrated along with a quality sports drink .
many a competitor has found his breaky on the inside of his helmet down here, one downside with me is that the sweat stings my eyes

tip 18... do small feet = a sall.................

tip 22...when its cold wear latex (OHHHH LATEX)wash up gloves under your moto gloves. it never ever gets cold in the northern part of Australia but in the southern states it does...BBBRRRRRRR

tip 23... keep a settings book for your bike.
ive got cars, dirt karts, karts,boats,road bikes, and with out my journals of each vehicle i forget were i was last time i was out in them.(my wifes idea)

tip 28... remove the inlet fuel line from the carby and spray a 2 second burst of silicon spray down the inlet pipe and i guarantee your needle and seat will be perfectly soft (rubber tip) and free.
we get alot of carby rebuilds at work from being left for long periods.
they look like they were sitting around the beach the whole time you had it parked up.

tip 30...this also stops wasps nesting in your hose, bloody things will nest in any exposed pipe or hose they can find.

tip 45...anualy (12mths) at worst.
most hydraulic fluids in the auto industry are very keen on moisture be it cold or humid it realy effects the feel.

tip...53 throw a few basic first aid bits and pieces in your bum (fanny-LMAO)bag

well im sure you'll agree to disagree but it' :lol: s my 10cents worth and NO it's not a rapper :lol:
"not speeding officer".....qualifying

CR250 97
CR500 AF 99 (in progress)
CR500 AF CR G-4
CR500 1985 true legend
RGV250 96 X2
GSXR600 07 TRACK BIKE
VH Commadore cup car (race)
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ScooterCR500
Posts: 9
Joined: October 22nd, 2009, 9:01 am

Re: 55 Solid Riding Tips....

Post by ScooterCR500 »

LEVERS AND CONTROLS

10. GLUE AND SAFETY-WIRE GRIPS.
The most important connection between you and your machine is at the grips. Grips that are not glued and safety-wired will come loose, guaranteed. Carefully clean the bar end or throttle tube, apply the glue and quickly slide on the grips in the correct orientation. Then finish the job by safety-wiring the ends to keep water out. Bury the twisted ends in the grip. Take extreme measures to make sure no glue gets inside the throttle tube.

Hello All,

I have bailing wire that I used on some type of project in the past. Is there smaller gauge wire that is used for grips? When i go to Glen Helen or Supercross races, I see wire being used but it appears to be narrower gauge material.


I tend to use glue only. If prepped correctly you'll get a good adhersion!
Thanx!
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racein01
Posts: 162
Joined: March 23rd, 2009, 2:21 am
Location: Central Qld Australia mate.

Post by racein01 »

You aint a pussy for wearing some sort of gloves when cleaning an air filter....use something!!!! oil is very bad for the skin specialy used oil.

When fitting new grips I just give a quick spray inside them with a rattle can of paint and slip it on quick and let it dry...and bob's your uncle.

Don't know if it was mentioned above but also keep the ends of your levers inside the end of the grips to reduce damage in crash and get more leverage from them..I also drill a 3mm hole in levers just past the knob for a sacrificial point so you can break the end off in a crash and still have a lever to use.
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CR500R7
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Location: South Australia
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Post by CR500R7 »

racein01 wrote:...and bob's your uncle.


Well, he was. :cry: He died back in 1970 when I was 4 ears old. :cry:
Jack Schitt
DIE FIRST, worry about it later!
DON'T talk about it, Just DO IT!
When in doubt, GO FLAT OUT!
2001 CR500R1 - SOLD
2007 CR250R7 - SOLD
Wife and Daughter - Left Aug 17 - 2010
Jack Schitt - ??????????????
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asteroid500
Posts: 1047
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 1:29 am
Location: Australia Melbourne

Post by asteroid500 »

my uncle Bob is a great bloke. :lol:
"not speeding officer".....qualifying

CR250 97
CR500 AF 99 (in progress)
CR500 AF CR G-4
CR500 1985 true legend
RGV250 96 X2
GSXR600 07 TRACK BIKE
VH Commadore cup car (race)
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2strokeforever
Posts: 1524
Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
Location: Vernon B.C Canada

Post by 2strokeforever »

this works good for me

1 KEEP YOUR FEET ON THE PEGS or you cant control wtf your bike does if you legs are dangling like a rekluse riders up a slipery hill
2 use the shit out of the clutch, thats why its there
3 if your not good at something dont avoid it, practice it (re read #1 and 2)
4 keep your bike properly maintained, it should feel just like a new bike
5 know your limits and ride within them
6 fall uphill
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
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